Jump to content
SAU Community

MAP / fuel pressure typical delay times


Recommended Posts

Hello my tuning friends 

Just wanted to bounce some thoughts around here. What would you consider a normal time for fuel pressure to catch up to boost pressure?

Say your cruising at 4000 rpm at around 10% throttle, then you pin the throttle, how far behind the MAP pressure would you expect the fuel pressure to trail / how long would you expect it to take for the fuel pressure to catch up? Would you expect it to be linear, say the fuel pressure trails perfectly behind MAP by 2 psi and then when boost stabilises at the max setting, fuel pressure also stabilises?  

Reason I ask, very recently the fun police inside my ECU said no no to this happening (see attached picture) 

I've got the sad's looking at the data. Looks like my fuel pump isn't keeping up :(. Will have to think about long term solutions...

The silver lining is, the car drives fine. If you didn't look at any data you wouldn't know anything is wrong. 

FP lagging.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I installed this pump just over a year ago -

https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump

Do we think the pump is starting to fail, or should I be looking at anything else in the fuel system?

When it was originally installed, everything was fine. I checked the 98 and e85 tunes, all good. 

For quite a while now, maybe 8+ months I've been on 98 only and the pump has been keeping up. But now that I've put e85 in it (the tank is currently about 50% ethanol) the pump suddenly can't keep up. No idea what's changed in the past year to upset the pump. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I installed this pump just over a year ago -

https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump

Do we think the pump is starting to fail, or should I be looking at anything else in the fuel system?

When it was originally installed, everything was fine. I checked the 98 and e85 tunes, all good. 

For quite a while now, maybe 8+ months I've been on 98 only and the pump has been keeping up. But now that I've put e85 in it (the tank is currently about 50% ethanol) the pump suddenly can't keep up. No idea what's changed in the past year to upset the pump. 

I would not recommend using any of the aeroflow pumps. Very prone to failure.

*I use and recommend a lot of their products. Fuel pumps are still best to stay with the big player's TI, Bosch, Pierburg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

It's the same age, just over a year old. I'd be surprised if it was an issue.

It's less about the sock and more about what might have been shaken loose from the tank walls/floor maybe by E85 or summat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

It's less about the sock and more about what might have been shaken loose from the tank walls/floor maybe by E85 or summat.

Yep a thing for sure, in this case though I've been on e85 for many years. Maybe 6 or 7 years? Can't remember, but a long time now.

But yeah, looks like I'm going to have to swap out the pump for the 3rd time now, so we'll get to see what the sock looks like anyways. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

lol they are sexy. 

My imaginary car would run a big boy electric fuel pump though. Maybe 2 of something like these in tank - 

https://fuelab.com/91901-1000hp-in-tank-power-module-fuel-pump/p327

But knowing my luck, I'd find out fuel lab can't make pumps and I'd be pulling them out again anyway lol. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I haven't logged any data yet, but I wanted to bounce this off everyone while I'm waiting to take the car out for a proper run. 

So the car was very hard to start this morning, finally fired and I took it to Supercheap to test the battery. Turns out the battery was low on voltage (can't remember the exact figure) and down about 250cca from where it should have been. Even though their simple battery tester said the battery was "fine, just needs a charge" they replaced it under warranty, pretty happy with that. 

Could a failing battery be the cause of the pump failing to keep up? The pump is pretty hungry, it pulls something like 20 amps from memory but I don't know how much this all matters when the car is actually up and running and the alternator is doing its thing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Could a failing battery be the cause of the pump failing to keep up?

Yeah, but maybe not. Maybe yeah. Maybe not. You know how it is. I mean, if the volts are low and the pump has reduced capacity, then it will maybe not be able to supply enough fuel to keep up with your peak demand, but it really shouldn't make it go lean as you're ramping up, then catch up again. The pump dynamics are (should be) a pretty instant trade off between flow rate and pressure, and even that shouldn't matter because it is actually the job of the fuel pressure regulator to take care of that dynamic, leaving the pump to see pretty much the same pressure and flow conditions any time the engine is running.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Could a failing battery be the cause of the pump failing to keep up?

Maybe go log your voltage vs. RPM as you doodling around town. The issue could be your alternator is cactus which has been supplying fluctuating voltage to the rest of your car thus killing your pump early.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Maybe go log your voltage vs. RPM as you doodling around town. The issue could be your alternator is cactus which has been supplying fluctuating voltage to the rest of your car thus killing your pump early.

Should I be logging ecu voltage or battery?

Edited by Murray_Calavera
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks to @V35_Paul there is an oem stereo available on gumtree, but the fascia is slightly different. It has a flip up screen as opposed to my pop up screen. Am I able to disconnect the radio/cd player from the fascia to use it on mine?    
    • Had to google what a quart is lol.. so rough as guts a litre. That's a bit excessive, also what oil weight are you running? The whole steam cleaning idea isn't too far fetched either. Maybe as you suggested, turn off the WMI (assuming your Kebabtech pulls timing, boost, etc.) and run it for a bit and see if there are any noticeable changes in spark plug colouring.
    • Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc.  What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?
    • OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.
    • Reason I say this is I have seen broken ones, in drift, drag and even behind a stock Z. I do appreciate most of the time its the synchro's that go.   Trouble with quoting HP is it doesn't really say how strong the box is.  I've not seen many CD00X box's make it past a mid 9(150mph) I have seen about a stock R33 RB25 box's run a 9 too, they all go boom at some point though.   Another clue is they make gearsets for CD00X box's too, wouldn't be a market if they didn't break or have a limit people are going past.   I totally agree it is a strong box, just have to weigh up the true total cost of the conversion vs rebuilding with a good gearset. 
×
×
  • Create New...