Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This doesnt look right it just dropped in the AF section can you please let me know what the problem is?

Nothing unusual, standard Skyline ECU Rich and Retard strategy. The R34 ECU is very agressive in implementing R&R. Time for some tuning.

:O cheers :)

Nothing unusual, standard Skyline ECU Rich and Retard strategy.  The R34 ECU is very agressive in implementing R&R.  Time for some tuning.

:O cheers :)

Oh okay cool was worried for a sec.. but why did it just drop all the way down an flat line.. should also add the ecu has been tuned by Mines and that worries me also..

damn 10....AFR's...do you get bad km's per tank full?

Around 300-350 how would i go about to correcting this would i need to find a stock ecu for my car? or just go and buy a SAVC

Not to be offensive but dont be cheap when it come to an ecu either....

I mean you paid 30+k for your r34 im sure... Spend a grand and buy a pfc... You will love it...

Yeah i was thinking of getting that instead but i thought the SAFC would do the same job. anyways guess myfront mount will have to wait

I got FMIC before ECU and found the car ran bit more boost.

THis is on a 34 GTT though, same car as the one in question :cheers:

SAFC won't do timing but yes it will correct your AFR's

If you car is auto then you will find it hard to get your hands on a stock ECU.

Manual there are a few on the forsale section.

Hey I have an auto R34 too with the SAFCII installed and tuned... AFRs are now floating around the 12.2-12.5 mark but I'm still only getting about 350kms per tank

Any reason? Any fixes? Cheers guys...

Hey I have an auto R34 too with the SAFCII installed and tuned...  AFRs are now floating around the 12.2-12.5 mark but I'm still only getting about 350kms per tank

Any reason? Any fixes?  Cheers guys...

Well right now i am blaming the problem on the Mines Chip on the computer cos i cant blame anything else but when i replace it i will post the difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...