Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A speed cut defender piggy backs into the computer on the loom and disables the 180km/hr limit... I think the S-AFC also includes speed cut functions??

Depends, many that come out of japan have had the limit removed by the time it gets here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9020-r33-gtst/#findComment-134112
Share on other sites

You dont have to get a new computer. I got my line and the speed cut was off. I could go quite a way past the 180 mark.

Last time I had the dash off though i noticed some dodgy looking wiring behind the instruments, that could be whats stopping it. Not sure though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9020-r33-gtst/#findComment-134186
Share on other sites

All imports are limited to 180km/h by law in japan i think?

this is incorrect i think the cut is more towards 190-200km last week i went out driving with a friend in our r33s we hit the speed cut several times and the needle hit 180 i was waiting for the engine to cut out but it took another 5 or so seconds with my foot to the floor before the engine cut out. The needle went past the 180 and kept going till I'd imagine a little past 190 then the engine cut out... :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9020-r33-gtst/#findComment-134470
Share on other sites

The best way to remove the speed limiter is with an Apexi RSM (Rev speed meter). This not only removes the speed limiter but gives you corect speed, revs, 1/4 mile, 0-100km/hr, shift light etc.

The analogue gauges in a standard instrument cluster are quite often out by a few %, which adds up when doing high speed, it is also good to know precisely what the revs are etc. For about $400 you get all this, a real bargain.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9020-r33-gtst/#findComment-134497
Share on other sites

Apexi RSM can't give correct 1/4, 1-100 etc as it measure engine revs. Wheelspin will affect your actual time (ie the RSM thinks your moving if the wheels are spinning). To get accurate times you need a g-tec or similar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9020-r33-gtst/#findComment-134516
Share on other sites

The 180km/hr cut is correct. At these speeds most guages are very inaccurate. Mine cuts in at what seems to be 190km/hr, but it is actually 180.

When you cut wire 53 into the computer you really need to put a switch onto it, as it can adverse side affects with power steering, HICAS and diagnostic functions. Plus who needs to have >180km/hr at their fingertips all the time?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9020-r33-gtst/#findComment-134689
Share on other sites

If you are worried about wire 53, read a thread called "free horsepower" on SDU forum, several guys did it with no adverse effects.

As for speed on speedo, mine is out by about 5% when compared to a power fc, also the tacho is not very accurate, it also reads a bit higher on the OEM guage when compared to the same, but not sure by how much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9020-r33-gtst/#findComment-136959
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
×
×
  • Create New...