Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90401-r32-installing-rb25-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I just used predator's guide yesterday and did my conversion. I just thought I'd post a few things that I have found.

Predator, feel free to use them in your guide if you agree.

1) Drop the coolant in the normal fashion before un-doing the water lines on the turbo (so drain from radiator) You are going to lose it all anyways, this way it's not as messy

2) I had to change water lines (89 GTST 4 door) and I can now tell you how you can work it out BEFORE you go to all the effort. Predator pointed out you need a 24mm socket for the water lines...well mine were 22mm, which obviously means it was a different size! So... you just need to get to the water lines and see what size socket it is. You still will have to remove the intake pipe, but it's only a 15 minute job to check to save you either stress or money about if you will need them.

3) I put the nipple onto the compressor housing and it is working fine. So if you are likely to change FMIC pipes it may be a better option *shrugs* up to you, apparently there is no performance difference by putting it in either spot.

4) Clean your water lines while they are out (if you take them out)

Cheers

Chris

Edited by eXc
  • 3 months later...

i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

BINGO! that's spot on the money. that's the way i do them too. It's easy to get the line off from under the car once you take the oil line off.

you don't even have to take the oil line off - you can do it with the oil line on, but it makes it a lot easier.

  • 1 year later...

hey just did this a couple of hours ago

few things i noticed

make sure u take off the oil return first, i forgot all about that until i went to take if off the car,

i left the dump pipe on the turbo and just undid the 3 bolts going to the front pipe, then when i installed it, i put the turbo back in the car with my new just jap split dump and front pipe attached to it,

the stupid line at the back of the turbo i could get a spanner on, yet couldnt be stuffed turning it that many times to get it off, so i undid the turbo from the manifold, carefuly slid it forward then used a socket and ratchet to take the line off, put it back on that way to (ratchet on, then bolt turbo to manifold)

i also took the actuator off the turbo while still in the car

also when i undid the oil drain, i undid the 2 12 mm bolts off the turbo instead of the flexible pipe

  • 5 weeks later...

Yeah, use the RB 20 actuator. The RB25 actuator is set to something like 4psi.

There are a few differences with the turbos. A series 2 r33 turbo is the same as a series 1 r34 turbo. The both feture the nylon (i think thats the name for it) impeller wheel. Helps it to spool faster.

A series 2 r34 turbo has the same impeller wheel but has a OP6 rear housing. The rear housing is similer to the size of a VG30 turbo. You might see a little bit more lag with the bigger rear housing on the RB20.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

Bookmarked your project website. Thanks

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...