Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Below is two pics of the GT35r (GT35/40R) turbos.

The one on the left has the .5 front cover as it came off the ford xr6 turbo.

The one on the right has a .7 front cover supplied aftermarket.

The turbo on the left (.5 ar front ) has a hose going from the actuator to a bung on the compressor cover, where the 0.7 cover one on the left doesnt have this at all.

Where do you need to attatch the hose coming off the actuator if you have the 0.7 front cover?? Somewhere after the outlet of the turbo on the pipework?

Thanks :)

post-3692-1128825810.jpg

post-3692-1128826268.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

cool. Now for another question :O

Is it just a simple job of swapping the 0.5 cover for a 0.7 cover between the two turbos?

Ive heard so many people say they are different specs, but are they different, or the same? ie, if i bought the one on the left, could i unbolt the front cover and swap it for a 0.7 ar front?

Thanks :)

Edited by Bl4cK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1629830
Share on other sites

No , the .50 cover is T04E series where the .70 is T04S series . You would need to change the back plate/adapter ring as well . These butt up to the flange on the comp side of the cartridges bearing housing , are sealed with an O ring and held in place by a large circlip .

Try to buy it as you want it because the bits are not always cheap , when I inquired through GCG Brett said he could supply any of the three .50/.60/.70 "E" covers or the .70 S cover for the same price .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1629994
Share on other sites

Ok, now ive got a good question disco (or anyone else) :

what is the difference between the T04E and the T04S covers...and when comparing same size covers - 0.5 T04E vs T04S?

(Also disco, what would you say would be the best on my motor, the 0.5, 0.6 or the 0.7?

What would be the difference in power spread over the 3 covers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1632295
Share on other sites

If you're looking to make fairly big power figures i.e. 300kw plus then you'd want to keep the .7 cover for the simple fact that it efficiently flows more air which is whats needed for big power and turbo reliability.

Anything under 300kw the .5 cover would be fine but thats pushing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1637173
Share on other sites

hrmmm .6 you say disco.

I would still prefer the .5, you will need all the response you can get with the 1.06.

The XR6 boys don't seem to have trouble cracking 320-340rwkw on the .5 comp cover. More than enough for the stock rod rb30. :)

Then again... The .7 comp gt35r 1.06 turbine will still have better response and spool time than an rb20det with a highflow or 2530 on it. :blink:

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1637534
Share on other sites

If you're looking to make fairly big power figures i.e. 300kw plus then you'd want to keep the .7 cover for the simple fact that it efficiently flows more air which is whats needed for big power and turbo reliability.

Anything under 300kw the .5 cover would be fine but thats pushing it.

Well i guess you should talk to GCG then, as they think differently. I emailed them and they said :

Thanks for the enquiry. For an RB30, I would suggest using the 0.60a/r Compressor Cover for your application. The difference between the 0.5a/r covers throughout the the T04 Range is the inlet and outlet sizes, and designs of the covers. They would all work in the same way, and produce similar, if not the same figures. We have had good success with people keeping the standard 0.70 T04S Compressor Cover, but you can drop to the 0.60 for better response

This is on a street driven car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1639618
Share on other sites

I would use it as is....

I mean try and if no good then swap em over....

There is just too much hear say on these topics....

I was told a standard r33 turbo on an rb20 would not produce a cent over 180rwkw and i got it too 230rwkw.... So who know's????

I would take Bretts advice as a starting point but if your un happy with the results you can always change it....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1640890
Share on other sites

Fatz made 270rwkw on 14psi with an untouched rb26

ecu running 10:1 afrs.

If the motor has forged rods then I would say the .6-.7 a/r cover would be worth while.

Remember with the .5 on the 3ltr its not going to really start going until 3800-4000. Is it worth making it even laggier and less responsive?

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1643473
Share on other sites

I'll trust fact that GCG know what they are talking about. Ford used the 0.5 front as it was a low boost application to keep the power down. (am i right...lol?) I think the slighlty bigger compressor (0.6 front) will be a bit better for a little more (14 to 19 psi) boost than Ford was running. If i wanted more boost again (ie 20+ psi) id go for the 0.7 front....thats my theory anyway, and im sticking to it :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1643533
Share on other sites

The reason Ford used the .5 comp cover is for response, nothing to do with keeping the power down or because it is a low boost application.

There is no doubt the larger comp cover will be more efficient and make the power easier but not that much.

As a bodgy comparison...

Consider the GCG highflows, the stock rb comp cover makes say 245rwkw odd. Slap on a .7 and it makes 260rwkw.

Thats 15rwkw.

Then consider dropping on a larger turbine housing, 245rwkw or so jumps to 277rwkw.

What I'm getting at is the biggest gains are to be had from the turbine side, not the compressor cover.

From what I've been reading up on, the larger .7 comp cover only offers 3-4% increase in power.

I really think your better off spending the $$ on a nice set of cams and springs that will need doing and pick your self up a second hand $1400 XR6 turbo.

Cams with the large turbine housing will work very well.

I think from more of a performance to $$ point of view.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90432-xr6-gt35r/#findComment-1643658
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...