Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put a boost tap in last week and have been playing round with it. My car only has the standard gtst intercooler. Could someone experienced and mechanically minded tell me what the max boost that I should run it on without the intake temps getting too high or the a/f mix becoming lean. Seems to hold 12psi fairly well.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90503-winding-up-boost-on-a-33-gtst/
Share on other sites

I personally run ~9.5psi with full exhaust and it's fine.

With summer coming, I wouldn't want to run anymore through the standard cooler personally. You're risking too much money for a couple of extra KW :D

huh, i personally wouldnt go over 11 psi to be safe with a bigger intercooler

13 is to much for stock turbo

Not worried about the turbo. It puts out fine. Im worried about the piston and rings. Thats it.

One other question. Is the car speed limited? I've nearly reached the top of 5th and haven't found one, yet people tell me it's limited to 180km/h.

serious? u held 14psi wit standard ecu, standard computer?

god mine wouldnt even let me get to 14psi...cuts out

not even 12psi

well count urself lucky, if the ecu let u do that, u would soon have no turbo, and possibly more problems, 12psi is within the limits, possibly even 11psi, push it more and ur asking for some trouble

Not worried about the turbo. It puts out fine. Im worried about the piston and rings. Thats it.

One other question. Is the car speed limited? I've nearly reached the top of 5th and haven't found one, yet people tell me it's limited to 180km/h.

are you really doing 180 ?

when they are imported they are fitted with an 180km speed limiter as part of compliance, this is easily bypassed and removed, so its possible that its removed, technically u shouldnt be able to top out 4th (on a manual)

which i have never tried, cause those speeds on the road are a little bit stupid u know ...

10psi for me, never any more.

and if u reached the top of fifth(250km/h) u have your speed limiter removed

at higher boost you should worry about your turbo not your motor. the standard ecu will go rich and retard and it should feel slow anyway.

serious? u held 14psi wit standard ecu, standard computer?

god mine wouldnt even let me get to 14psi...cuts out

not even 12psi

lol... my car is well looked after. Im an apprentice mech.

plus I put out the exta dosh for bp ultimate :D

Not to mention that the turbo would be working harder to push that much air through the stock cooler (as I've been told they are pretty restrictive)

Personally, I'd recommend no more than 10psi. Who knows, if your turbo blows, you could end up with nasty bits in your engine, not really worth it....

Not to mention that the turbo would be working harder to push that much air through the stock cooler (as I've been told they are pretty restrictive)

Personally, I'd recommend no more than 10psi.  Who knows, if your turbo blows, you could end up with nasty bits in your engine, not really worth it....

Thanks Tomm0. This is exactly the sort of stuff I want to find out. Thats something I haven't thought about. What damage could it cause if the turbo blows?

lol... my car is well looked after. Im an apprentice mech.

plus I put out the exta dosh for bp ultimate  :D

it does not matter what fuel or what u are, if u run 14psi the turbo is sure to die soon after some hard use. do a search on stock turbo and u will see why, but simply put, the exhaust wheel is ceramic, and does not handle heat well.

haha whoaaa watch out people, hes an apprentice!!! lol just joking, yea i use the good fuel also...

Coupe This: i had no intention of running 14psi! it was set to 12psi....held it flat up a hill...major cut out, dont want that again, dont even want it at 10psi, raising the boost wit mostly standard parts dosnt enhance performance at all, car runs slower at any boost above 9 or 10 or 11....its set at standard until i put my power fc, bosh 040 pump, fuel presure reg and cam gears in, than i will have it at a max of 12psi

It's more a matter of keeping the heat as low as possible. The figure most people use is 13psi, but if you go on track days it might blow up at 11psi due to the heat, simply too hard to predict.

With a FMIC, most people run 12psi without any problems.

Dont intend on going to track days until I have all the stuff to handle long periods of high load. At the moment I only give it hard for a couple of minutes at a time. Or drag it on the quarter mile.

Cheers for the productive answers Tomm0

10psi sound like the go till FMIC is in then i'll see how 12psi goes.

Edited by r33nut

I would have wagered a bet that your turbo would have blown within the month if you kept it running at 14psi.

Its all about what you want: A quick high or reliable buzz?

I dont really understand how it works but from what I've read, the stocker experiences diminishing returns after 12psi.

Personal recommendation? I reckon keep it at 10psi until you get a FMIC, especially with the hotter summer days approaching.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...