Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the best ways to get rid of vibrations from your subs?

I have two 12inch JBL subs which make just about everything vibrate. Including the boot lid, bumper, plastic thing between the lights etc. (It is an R31.)

I have been told to put Pollyfilla expanding foam behind the plastic thing between the lights however this will mean I will never be able to get it off again. It also solves only part of the problem.

Would like to know what other people have done to fix this problem in their cars regardless of what they drive.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edited by pat31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/
Share on other sites

My Commodore reacted well with self-adhesive foam strips. I undid my boot garnish (the plastic between the two tail-lights) and ran that foam all along it, then screwed it back together.

The foam is thin, and compresses well when you tighten the screws back up. I did the same for the licence plate... just take the plate off, flip it over to see the back of it, then run the foam strips along all four sides.

The boot.. my Berlina had reinforcing on the inside (same as the Skyline), and the welds holding the reinforcing onto the actual boot had cracked and come off with all the vibration. I stuffed a bit of foam here and there so that the two metals couldn't touch each other... dodge job here, and i'm sure a welder could have just done a few spot-welds that would have solved the problem.

The bumper, I dunno... maybe take it off, and check that the bumper supports (metal bracket things) aren't misaligned, then wrap the supports in foam, and hang the bumper back on them? Trial and error there, but maybe someone else has a better solution?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/#findComment-1635257
Share on other sites

I tried some self adhesive foam strips on the number plate.

These said they were for outdoor use but when I wash the car or it rains, they tend to come apart leaviing little black specks everywhere.

Have you had this problem? Was there a particular brand you used?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/#findComment-1636688
Share on other sites

Yeah I went to Bunnings once looking for that kinda stuff. Couldn't find it and asked a guy for help. He asked me what it was for and when I told him he just looked at me like I was a f*ckwit and directed me to rubber grommets which I had already tried b4.

That was when I ended up buying the self adhesive foam. They r usually much friendlier and helpful. Although he was about 60 so he probably didn't fully understand about subs.

Anyway, thanks for that, i'll go back and try and find some of that stuff and give it a go.

If anyone else has any ideas don't hesitate to post them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/#findComment-1637212
Share on other sites

ive experianced this problem guys and what i now do is put a couple of beads of sikaflex behind the number plate before fitting it, sorts it out no worries, just remember that it will be dam hard to remove if ever needed

maybee use silicone?

mind you, if your cranking enough bass it,s alwase going to be hard to prevent vibrations....... a bit like tryn to stop a dash vibrating in a four wheel drive when on coragated roads

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/#findComment-1637263
Share on other sites

mind you, if your cranking enough bass it,s alwase going to be hard to prevent vibrations....... a bit like tryn to stop a dash vibrating in a four wheel drive when on coragated roads

Dave

Yeah I know its a constant pain in the arse. I've only got 250watts going to each sub, will soon be putting this up to 500watts.

Thats why I started this thread, I just wanna hear what other people have tried.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/#findComment-1639626
Share on other sites

sound deadener lowers the resonance frequency of whatever panel you apply it to. dynamat and brown bread, along with stinger and wurth and g-spot and dls and plain chant and ..bla bla bla..... they're all "basically" variations on the same theme.

when i deadened my old 33 i used g-spot serenity max (dynamat etc would work just as well), a heavy duty bitumen paint, bits of foam, cotton batts (like mini fibreglass batts), felt, double sided tape, rubber grommits etc etc - whatever worked the best for whichever area i was concentrating on.

when i finished, my car was -4db quieter inside (less than half as noisy) at 100 in 5th and completely rattle free at all times.

be prepared to start to go prematurely gray if you are to go as keen as this tho! was a right royal pain in the ass!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/#findComment-1649967
Share on other sites

i second using the adhesive foam strips. On my VS the boot garnish and numberplate ratlled like a bugger... i took the garnish off and put it round the edges, put it back on and the rattle there disappeared and you cant see the foam.

For numbeplate rattles, loosen the numberplate and stick a mouse pad under there and tighten it back up :) it works a treat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90761-bad-vibrations/#findComment-1651302
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...