Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wuz jus wondering what the actual potential of the stock rb25det engine is, in terms of the rev range??? cuz the stock engine (i think) has a rev limiter at 7000rmp...if i were 2 remove it, i wuz wonderin how much i cud push it??? jus a knowledge question...he he.. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90886-rev-limit-on-rb25det/
Share on other sites

stock limiter is a fuel cut not ignition cut so im told but, when i had aftermarket bov i would bash the limiter hard and my car would pop HUGE flames

Got to love the flames... My gf wont get in my car because of the flames... lol

I suppose having no cat wouldn't help... lol

Greg

stock rev limit it 7000, dont know where all these guys are getting crazy figures from!

note that high up in the rpm the tacho reads high. i have found generally if the tacho hits 7000 most of the time it has only revved to about 6700-6800. so 7000 real rpm will usually show into the red.

the power dies off with stock turbo and motor after about 6500 so there is no point in revving it, if u shift up you will end up going faster.

stock rev limit it 7000, dont know where all these guys are getting crazy figures from!

note that high up in the rpm the tacho reads high. i have found generally if the tacho hits 7000 most of the time it has only revved  to about 6700-6800. so 7000 real rpm will usually show into the red.

the power dies off with stock turbo and motor after about 6500 so there is no point in revving it, if u shift up you will end up going faster.

My r33 s1 rb25det, has a rev limiter of 7100rpm. secondly i dont see how if tacho read 7000/7100 is only reving to 6700-6800 :blink::)

also saying that if u shif up you will end up going faster isnt as ture as it sounds. the fact of the matter if u shift at the limiter would will be futher along in the next gear. i have drag many mid mod r33, (exhuast,fmic,airfilter the normal) and i have a Rb20 turbo on my car making farless as quick as a normal r33 would be with my mods and i can beat, keep up with them due to them shortshifting and me pushing all the way to the limiter (when i say shortshifting i mean they shift around 5500,6000rpm)

just my 2cents

dan22, have u block up the pipe in which the stock bov would plum back into the turbo intake? also try adjusting the screw on the bov; i had a hks bov for along time on my car with no stall problem

yeah blocked da plum back tube....n tried adjustin da bov as well....at 3000 to 4000 rev if i shift from 1st 2 2nd....da rev jus drops below 1000rev and engine cuts of....it seems like fuel is cut out....i wuz wonderin whether its cus da hks bov is exactly where the stock bov used ta be...

yeah blocked da plum back tube....n tried adjustin da bov as well....at 3000 to 4000 rev if i shift from 1st 2 2nd....da rev jus drops below 1000rev and engine cuts of....it seems like fuel is cut out....i wuz wonderin whether its cus da hks bov is exactly where the stock bov used ta be...

hmm that is very werid :blink: the only thing which i can thing of is you may be leaking air from somewhere, as most of the problems relating to bov are due to a pressure drop (leaking of air) and therefore the car just stalls.

I had a similar problem with my apexi bov as it was venting too much air and the car lost to much pressurer (as the bov is suit to higher hp spec turbo and the stock turbo doesnt flow enough air) all i can think of that maybe the bov isnt working right or something isnt connected right :S

makes sense...cuz am runnin everythin except da pod n exhaust system, stock...so it makes sense dat possibly the bov is ventin 2 much induction air n non is goin into to the engine...explains da massive backfiring....

sounds like you found your problem *maybe*,as a was also getting alot of backfiring (bigger than normal) with my apexi bov

That would sound accurate to me, since mine seems to bounce off around that point. Ive always noticed the difference of about 200-300 rpm from my dash tacho (when its working) and the tacho on my avc-r.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...