Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking of changing the standard exhaust manifold on my R33 gtst. Im making 250rwkw, hoping to get it flowing a little better. What is the nest way to go? i have the following options in my mind:

1) get a stainless steel one off ebay or the like for around $400...(im worried if they are dodgy and will crack and not sure if they are tuned lenght)??

2) liverpool exhausts quoted me $1200 to get one custom done + fitted then ill HPC coat it.. thats tuned length..

3) HKS one or the like,

by the way this is for a low mount turbo in stock position...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90899-extractorsmanifold/
Share on other sites

hey croat,

stay away from the cheap ebay/chinacopy stuff. you will have way to many problems with it not fitting correctly and the very high possable of it cracking in the near future.

option 2/3 are you best bet. if you can find something like a low-mount cast-iron HKS manifold, buy it as its one of the best lowmount manifold around for an rb20/25 (only problem is that it is to suit an ext gate)

$1200 is alot of money, and im guesing you could get a hks/trust/apexi one for around the same price but mostly it will be high-mount and to suit an ext gate.

Ask the exhuast shop how much for the manifold, without fitting as it is a very easy job, and im sure you could pull it off yourself (if u got the tools and abit of time) which may save you a few dollars.

Good luck and just remember you get what you pay for so stay away from the cheap crap :blink:

hope that helps

cheers mikey :)

We are up to 265 rwkw with the standard exhaust manifold on the R34GTT. If you are looking for less than 300 rwkw, personally I would have a go at power porting the standard manifold.

Abrasive Flow Enginering at St Marys did some others that I liked the look of, defiitely worth a try.

:( cheers :(

Maybe also check out this guy out, cost around the $1000 mark.

I've only heard good things so far, so he must be doing something right.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=50987

Some pics for those who couldn't be bothered opening up the other thread:

post-2292-1129180400.jpg

post-2292-1129180436.jpg

post-2292-1129180468.jpg

post-2292-1129180492.jpg

From all reports I believe the 6boost stuff is up there quality wise and probably performance wise with the Jap stuff. But you are better off to get in touch with 6boost himself and make your own mind up.

Unless you are specifically after a brand name and the bragging rights that go with it, I don't see why you wouldn't consider a good local product.

His collector design certainly appear to be unique.

Edited by browny

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=27815.15

Have a look halfway down that thread for a pic of the R31GTSR factory manifold.

Might be able to still get it through Nissan and if so should be able to get the factory heatsheild as well for a stock appearance.

Edited by FATGTS-R

too f..ken much!!!!

here is my recent purchase for my build up.. overkill for my goals.. but hell they are sex all over!

i probably paid a bit too much for em .. even with the HPC coat.. but finding them alone.. and for sale was enough.

http://outlawconnection.com/angryaussie/sig/r31/P4030009.jpg

is it an ex GTSr fred gibson motorsport one. apparently..... they flowed the same as the standard manifold.. but in split pulse to help spool up. pretty much the same idea as the GTSR. gains of around 25rwkw was typical, bolt on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...