Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Sk. I'm pertty sure both bolt holes were the same depth, quite deep that is.

If you were to try rotating it off the car you should be able to do it right? I might try and put it in a vice and see if I can rotate it.

Thanks.

As you can see from this picture the LHS bolt has bottomed out, use that to rotate the eccentric crush tube. The lock nut is then tightened.

R34_GTST_Front_Suspension_Small.jpg

:( cheers :laugh:

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey SydneyKid / Others.

What about this style pictured below? I have never seen them before, but I was getting a wheel aligment done and the guy was recomending stuff and said much the same as you...however he added that these were good, even if they are $1600 a pair! (ouch)

The ones pictured are 'cheapies' I found after a 5 minute search. They are $325 NZ. The 'good' ones are the brand "midori" not sure if that refers to the brand or the style. But maybe you can shed some light on the topic.

BTW, if you do review them, put it on the front page perhaps?

Cheers

Chris

post-15054-1172478095.jpg

Me and a mate have got these. Got them off yahoo auctions for $500 delivered if I remember right. Some generic jap things.

They're good, plenty of adjustment, but are pretty harsh for street use.

  • 3 weeks later...
As you can see from this picture the LHS bolt has bottomed out, use that to rotate the eccentric crush tube. The lock nut is then tightened.

R34_GTST_Front_Suspension_Small.jpg

:( cheers ;)

Hi Sydneykid

I've been trying to correct my camber on the front of my r33 gtr but without luck. I have -1 deg on left and -2 deg on right and the suspension is stock v-spec. I apparently have no camber adjustment on the front of my car (according to Tyrepower) but then I saw this picture of the yellow whiteline bushes installed on the front of an r34 for camber adjustment. My car looks like it's got the exact same yellow bushes on the front.

Does this sound like my camber is adjustable ? If so how are they adjusted and how could I find out if they are infact a whiteline front camber kit ? I am concerned as I run 275/35 Advan V103 tyres which they slug me at $680 per corner and don't want to wear them out. Any help would be great as you seem to know your stuff and I know not a lot about suspension. Cheers

Hi Sydneykid

I've been trying to correct my camber on the front of my r33 gtr but without luck. I have -1 deg on left and -2 deg on right and the suspension is stock v-spec. I apparently have no camber adjustment on the front of my car (according to Tyrepower) but then I saw this picture of the yellow whiteline bushes installed on the front of an r34 for camber adjustment. My car looks like it's got the exact same yellow bushes on the front.

Does this sound like my camber is adjustable ? If so how are they adjusted and how could I find out if they are infact a whiteline front camber kit ? I am concerned as I run 275/35 Advan V103 tyres which they slug me at $680 per corner and don't want to wear them out. Any help would be great as you seem to know your stuff and I know not a lot about suspension. Cheers

There are non adjustable polyurethane camber kits available. There is a simple way to check, take a look at the above picture and you can see the bolt on the LHS of the arm is bottomed out (protrudes) and it has a lock nut. The non adjustable bushes don't have the protruding bolt and the lock nut (ie; the LHS of the arm looks the same as the RHS of the arm). It is most unusual though, very few non adjustable kits are sold.

I should mention that a tyre service is not the best place to get a wheel alignment, try your local suspension workshop. There is a list of recommeded ones in the various Group Buy suspension threads.

:( cheers ;)

There are non adjustable polyurethane camber kits available. There is a simple way to check, take a look at the above picture and you can see the bolt on the LHS of the arm is bottomed out (protrudes) and it has a lock nut. The non adjustable bushes don't have the protruding bolt and the lock nut (ie; the LHS of the arm looks the same as the RHS of the arm). It is most unusual though, very few non adjustable kits are sold.

I should mention that a tyre service is not the best place to get a wheel alignment, try your local suspension workshop. There is a list of recommeded ones in the various Group Buy suspension threads.

:( cheers :(

Thanks for posting back. Mine have the protruding bolt and locking nut on the arms. On drivers side arm the protruding bolt and locking nut is on the left (towards the rear of car) and the passenger side arm has the protruding bolt on the right (towards the rear of car also). Does this sound correct ? Has someone put them in wrong ? Also being in Alice springs I'm very limited to where I can go to get wheel alignments done, there's like 3 places.

My setup does look exactly like the picture on the drivers side though. Really annoys me if the are adjustable and no one has picked up on it after 7 wheel alignments.

Thanks for posting back. Mine have the protruding bolt and locking nut on the arms. On drivers side arm the protruding bolt and locking nut is on the left (towards the rear of car) and the passenger side arm has the protruding bolt on the right (towards the rear of car also). Does this sound correct ? Has someone put them in wrong ? Also being in Alice springs I'm very limited to where I can go to get wheel alignments done, there's like 3 places.

My setup does look exactly like the picture on the drivers side though. Really annoys me if the are adjustable and no one has picked up on it after 7 wheel alignments.

Most tyre services have probably never seen adjustable camber bushes on a Skyline and so have no idea what to do. Show them the adjusting bolt and the lock nut. When they undo the lock nut and turn the adjusting bolt, the camber will change (amazing).

:( cheers :(

Has anyone purchased / used a set of these yet ? If yes, and they good quality ? Much adjustment ?

post-2420-1174011792.jpg

They are on eBay ( USA ) and are pretty expensive but look the goods.

* Sorry if this has already been posted *

^ castor rods right?

Well im using just jap one and found them to be good quailty..

I noticed a hell of a difference from stock bushes to rods, esp at high speeds around a corner.

(but im now use to it, esp the bumps you feel)

Sk do you feel that this is the same for castor rods? That is, its worthwhile buying adjustable bushes, than rods?

OR anyone else? I have been using jusjap ones for a long time now (1 year maybe??).. No problems..

But worth going back to adjustable bushes? your thoughts anyone?

^ castor rods right?

Well im using just jap one and found them to be good quailty..

I noticed a hell of a difference from stock bushes to rods, esp at high speeds around a corner.

(but im now use to it, esp the bumps you feel)

Sk do you feel that this is the same for castor rods? That is, its worthwhile buying adjustable bushes, than rods?

OR anyone else? I have been using jusjap ones for a long time now (1 year maybe??).. No problems..

But worth going back to adjustable bushes? your thoughts anyone?

It a personal preference thing, some people can't stand the increased NVH from sperical bearings. Others don't seem to mind (notice), until they get into a car with out spherical bearings and then the notice the lack of NVH. The truth is very FEW people will ever notice any improvement in handling from using spericals over polyurethane. But MOST people will notice the increased NVH.

(NVH = noise, vibration and harshness)

>_< cheers >_<

  • 2 weeks later...

Be aware that using front adjustable upper arms still means that you have rubber bushes in the outer joint on R33's and R34's. Similarly rear adjustable upper arms still mean that you have rubber bushes in the outer joint (R32/33/34). Plus you will need rear traction arms well, and (you guessed it) you will still have rubber bushes in the outer joint.

So buying adjustable arms doesn’t get rid of the soft and/or worn out rubber bush problem.

:huh: cheers :laugh:

If you didn't go with the rotating bush to adjust front camber, what would be the best design for an adjustable front upper arm for a R32 GTR? Maybe something like the "midori" ones with a polyurethane bush? I assume it would need to be very rigid.

While I am at it, how is castor changed in a R32 GTR?

If you didn't go with the rotating bush to adjust front camber, what would be the best design for an adjustable front upper arm for a R32 GTR? Maybe something like the "midori" ones with a polyurethane bush? I assume it would need to be very rigid.

While I am at it, how is castor changed in a R32 GTR?

I have yet to see a perfect front upper arm design for R32's. Nissan obviously agreed as they went to the wide spaced arm on R33's and R34's.

Caster is adjusted via the radius rods, offset bushes in the front of the radius rod being the best solution for a car that does any road work.

:huh: cheers :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...