Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Needed!

mrjelly
 Share

Recommended Posts

mrjelly Apprentice

mrjelly

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys

i just got my r32 gtst and having a few problems. First thing, when i drove the car home, the car just switched off by itself in the middle of the road. The only sign i got was the gauge on the right, above the temperature gauge, had the red light on for 2 secs. the second problem i have, is a very squeaky clutch. Everytime i depress the clutch, it makes a loud squeaky noise from the outside, nothing serious right? and now i got this other re-occuring problem. Once when i drove it, the car sounded like a wrx, n loss alot of power. found out i had faulty spark plugs and a faulty coil pack. Problem only occurs after car has been driving for 5 mins. now all new spark plugs put in, and the faulty coil pack is cool. now when i drove it again, the same prob happens, 30mins into the drive after everything is all fixed. car loses alot of power, and some weird 'rattly-clicky' noise is heard during idle. i dunno guys. any help is appreciated, thanks.

Edited by mrjelly
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91169-help-needed/
Share on other sites
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

:D hmmm.

red light is the oil light.

if it is cutting out it could be a number of things. does it splutter then cutout or just switches of?

ratteling sound is not good. check the crankangle sensor. does it have a black rubber cap on it with a mitsubishi logo or a alloy plug

if its the alloy plug one id say the bearings are gone(quite common)

if it cuts randomly id say airflow metre.

if it sortof breaks down higher up in the revrange as you give it some its the crankangle sensor.rusty inside.

if its a hard to start id say the fuel pump.(need a presure guage to comfirm)

does it make a graunchy noise when you play with the clutch.

it could be the spigot bearing in the crank (heaps loud and shakes everything)

or the throw-out bearing for the clutch. (more of a consistant uniform noise)

hope that is some help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91169-help-needed/#findComment-1644197
Share on other sites
mrjelly Apprentice

mrjelly

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks dude,

well the squeky clutchc noise was just a joint or something that needed lubricant.

the weird noise from engine bay is apparently due to a new belt that was put in (possibly timing belt) that needed time to just n re-adjust.

as for the engine switching off.. i dunno.

at first they thought coz the engine was idling abit low (approx. 800rpm) which is normal anyways i think.

well they tried increasing that but it didnt help.

i found out specifically when it happens now.

ok,... when i drive it and trash it on a straight, then when i come to slow down, i will clutch in and gear down while braking... but b4 i get to throw it back into 2nd gear, u know how the revv meter falls back down to idle rpm when ur clutched in while trying to change gears, well this is where it happened.

the engine switches off suddenly, with no warning or sound. the steering locks up and oil gauge warning light is lit.

pretty dangerous huh?

apparently someone said that bcoz the injectors were just recently cleaned out, the throttle lid or something is looser coz its cleaner, n will fall back easier.... something like that, i have no idea.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91169-help-needed/#findComment-1645778
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...