Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The shop can tune it in one day but if you take it home straight away it may not cold start properly. They need to leave it over night to let the engine cool down completely.

It will also depend how modified your car is and what you want done that will determine how long it will take to tune. But if its pretty basic tune not too many mods (like my car) the shop normally quote about 6 hrs give or take.

it might pay for the tuner to take their time with regards to the stresses of putting the engine/gearbox/diffs under load for a long period of time. It just simply wears them out when oils get too hot..

2-3 hours is what I've been quoted.

The PFC comes with a base map which is pretty good. I've been driving round on it for about a month. Cold start isn't too bad either. Idles a bit low sometimes on relatively cold start.. but a apparently you are meant to let the car idle for 20 minutes when you first install it and put the aircon on etc (which I didn't do)

I'd be worried about my car on the dyno for 5-6 hours..bit of overkill in most applications. Go to somewhere that can tune by laptop - that will cut tuning costs in half..

Well i dyno tuned my PFC myself with my tuner and it took a good 2/3 hours and we didnt even play with the ignition maps. By the time you fiddle with light, medium and full loads and at each 400rpm point, you would be surprised how long it takes.

Mine took 1hr for only a wot tune, ignition and afr's.

And thats only modifying 3 load points over the rpm range. :)

That leaves 16 load points (I was using up to load point 19) left to tune. So if you worked on every single load point it would take a total of... 16/3 = 5.3hrs + the 3load points which brings it up to 6.3hrs.

Bodgy calc, but I can see how it can take so long if your really anal (I dislike that word) about having each load point perfect when using the hand controller.

Cold start is spot on with the pfc, as is warm (warm is bad with the rb20det pfc, use the rb25/rb26 values)

An area of improvement is the light and heavy load water temp injection correction table, Use the R34 values as its already been tweaked. ;)

Waldo, I would be curious as to see if your water temp injection correction table is close to the r34 one. Mine runs so so much better with the R34 table, the base table was flooding it causing the car to bog down at low rpm when stone cold i.e no warm up, simply start and drive off lightly.

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...