Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just ran up the 2E0 in my r33 gtst today. In total the kit took dad and I about 8 hours of working out where everything goes and soldering etc.

Must say we both were pretty surprised when the unit worked no problems - I'm not that good at soldering and this was my first circuit board!

It's very rewarding when it fires up though - we haven't tried any of the datalogging software as yet though - would be interesting to compare notes with you SK if you've got yours up and running.

Where we put the bung for the sensor worked out really well as you don't have to jack the car up to install it and the heat shielded cable can run up through the engine bay, out the back of the bonnet and through the passengers window really neatly and discreatly.

I haven't used a lambda sensor before and it was interesting at cruise to turn off the oxygen sensor and see how much the AFRs changed - on my car it didn't change much at all as the Apexi is tuned to run aroung the 14.7 14.8 AFR at cruise. When the 02 sensor is on I also noticed it seems to change up and down a bit more as it is allways trying to get to stolich.

Also with my new 550 cc injectors and turbo upgrade I was keen to see what the afr's were but they are pretty spot on at stolich for cruise and about 11.7 under medium load - no knock so I'm happy as I have to wait until the 3rd december for the tune.

Cheers!

post-12959-1132829741.jpg

post-12959-1132829886.jpg

post-12959-1132829966.jpg

post-12959-1132830282.jpg

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi, Glen’s Dad here.

Anyone contemplating building one of these kits should read on.

I built my amps back in the 70’s but this is a whole different story. The components have got smaller, they’re placed closer together and my eyesight is rooted. You need a top quality solder station, not that old Scope on the bench, and the final product test procedures are straight from the space shuttle.

Congratulations SK, that’s a bloody neat job.

My next project will arrive assembled, hey.

Regards.

would it be ok to place the lambda sensor where the factory sensor goes? IE i would use it all the time and use the simulated narrowband output to my ecu, not that it makes a bearing on my ECU (microtech) as it does not affect tuning at all

would be interesting to compare notes with you SK if you've got yours up and running.

I have been too busy to get back to it, we took delivery of the Dallara F3 at the conclusion of the A1 GP meeting and I have been learning how to engineer one of those things after quite a few years away form open wheelers. Sequental 6 speed, mono front shock, wings, diffusers, downforce etc. We have a shake down race this weekend at Eastern Creek to iron out the bugs (not the car, the pit crew) before the full National Championship season next year. So my own car stuff has suffered from inattention.

Plus I have had a couple of problems with my laptop which only surfaced when I was setting up the Group Buy Consult interface (that's a good simple kit). The USB to Com port software didn't want to co-operate, but that is sorted now. So I will get back to the testing and set up of the A/F meter next week.

:) cheers :)

Hi SK,

What (if anything) do you use to monitor knock whilst making adjustments on the road?

Cheers,

Matt

Hi Matt, I have a set of these;

STE-6600.jpg06600.jpg

The Steelman costs around $200, which is OK value if you use it all the time. But for around $20, this is better value for the occasional user (thanks to JE from Autospeed);

0353.jpg

Either of them make hearing pre-igniton while driving or dyno tuning very easy. There is no better knock detection than the trained/experienced human ear.

:( cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid

i reckon a group buy for the tech edge a/f ratio meter (pre assembled) and even the Steelman knock headphone things :(

i definately need one soonish, and my mate also wants one most likely.

cheers

Brad

We hooked the 2E0 up to my laptop today. We didn't do it straight away as I had to get a serial port to USB adapter as my laptop is fairly new and only came with USB's.

We're just interested in what inputs you guys use on your kits? Ie Rpm or load (AFM Voltage?)

Trying to catch it when you're driving is pretty hard - I haven't taken it for a drive with the laptop yet but it would be nice to be able to see what load point and rpm that certain AFR was!

I'm not really interested in making a mess splicing into anything - just was wondering it there's an easy way to hook up these outputs??

Cheers!

where do i find more info about the DIY detonation detector? seeing as i don't have knock sensors i reckon its pretty important i have something...

anyone willing to contact Tech Edge about doing a group buy? i was thinking about ordering one in the next few weeks, but if i can get cheaper why not!

Sydneykid - I found this on eBay, a wireless version of the steelman chassisear!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-STEELMA...sspagenameZWD2V

Complete overkill I reckon..

Yanks :D , they just HAVE to have the latest wiz bang shit.

We hooked the 2E0 up to my laptop today. We didn't do it straight away as I had to get a serial port to USB adapter as my laptop is fairly new and only came with USB's.

We're just interested in what inputs you guys use on your kits? Ie Rpm or load (AFM Voltage?)

Trying to catch it when you're driving is pretty hard - I haven't taken it for a drive with the laptop yet but it would be nice to be able to see what load point and rpm that certain AFR was!

I'm not really interested in making a mess splicing into anything - just was wondering it there's an easy way to hook up these outputs??

I usually use both RPM and AFM voltage as they are the axis on the injection map. With a bit of practise you can then identify which load points need to be tuned. Speeds up the tuning process heaps.

You really need 2 people if you want to tune as you drive. That's what logging is all about, drive & log -----> stop & review & tune ------> drive & log etc. I do that until I am happy I have covered most conditions.

I pick up all the inputs at the ECU plug, once you are familiar with the pin outs it only takes a few minutes to log everything that you need. I don't splice into the standard wiring, takes too long and is messy. A few years ago (for the race car diadnostics) I made up a short (around 1 metre) wiring harness with 10 cables in it, each is a different colour. Every cable has a piece of thin wire soldered to the end, insulated with shrink wrap except for the last 3 or 4 mm. The wire is small/stiff enough to push in through the back of the ECU plug, into whatever pin I need. There is not large current draw involved here, it's only a signal for logging, so the connection doesn't have to be permanent.

I am going to make up a similar harness (with less wires though) for the A/F meter logging inputs, I will post up some pictures when it is done.

:D cheers :D

where do i find more info about the DIY detonation detector? seeing as i don't have knock sensors i reckon its pretty important i have something...

The elcheapo and DIY versions are in the AutoSpeed articles written by JE;

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0353/article.html

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1353/article.html

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2717/article.html

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

I was searching the net last night and came across these kits. I emailed oosh and he gave me this link. I am yet to build my epprom burner i have at home from dicksmiths $100. I already have the consult interface and one of these would be the perfect addition to writing my own chips. Which kit would you recommend for me, I'm after something pre build so I can get on the go straight away. Is the most expensive kit worth it if I will be using it a lot or would the one you guys are using be suitable. What are the benifits of the more expensive setup?

Its good to see you guys doing your own thing. You all beat me to it!

Looking thru the stats on these, they have an simulated Narrow band outpur (NBsim), is anyone using this?

i.e. Completely replacing the stock O2 sensor with the new WB one, then plumbing the NBsim output in to your ECU, or are you just mounting both?

I was searching the net last night and came across these kits. I emailed oosh and he gave me this link. I am yet to build my epprom burner i have at home from dicksmiths $100.  I already have the consult interface and one of these would be the perfect addition to writing my own chips. Which kit would you recommend for me, I'm after something pre build so I can get on the go straight away. Is the most expensive kit worth it if I will be using it a lot or would the one you guys are using be suitable. What are the benifits of the more expensive setup?

Its good to see you guys doing your own thing. You all beat me to it!

Some have onboard logging, others require a laptop connected to log...

Looking thru the stats on these, they have an simulated Narrow band outpur (NBsim), is anyone using this?

i.e. Completely replacing the stock O2 sensor with the new WB one, then plumbing the NBsim output in to your ECU, or are you just mounting both?

This is what i would hope to do, however no one else has mentioned using it in this position as yet, but i can't see a problem with it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...