Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Indicator Relay?


bilbo117
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys...

somereason my indicators have just stopped working.... fuse checked out ok.. and the hazard lights still work (if this is even relevant??) does anyone know which relay i am to look for? incase mine is buggered? any other likely problems?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats an easy relay to find as my car is stripped,, its a black square relay to the left of round one, there side by side, they are located to the way way left of the steering wheel buy lower, you may have to take tha dash facia off and take the bottom section off from undet the steering wheel.

I can get a picture if u like

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats an easy relay to find as my car is stripped,, its a black square relay to the left of round one, there side by side, they are located to the way way left of the steering wheel buy lower, you may have to take tha dash facia off and take the bottom section off from undet the steering wheel.

I can get a picture if u like

but my guess would be they the white plug at the back top of the dash section. Then you can put new globes in while its out, and chech the indicator globes, they are standard wedge globes.

Also it may sound strange but check the fuses under the bonnet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok.... i found a page that said the indicator fuse was the one third from bottom and in left column in fuse box near drivers right leg. this fuse was fine. im convinced its the relay... checked fuses under bonnet and there doesnt seem many there. a couple of relays but if u say its near the steering column id be more inclined to believe that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 14 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I need to do the same with mine.

 

How do you remove the lower dash trim under the steering wheel that covers all the area underneath?

Edited by ossy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

? Reallly?!?

 

...well where exactly? Lol. Had the main dash and steering surround off the other day and couldn't see any screws/clips at all to remove the lower trim.

 

Can only see one screw that can be seen in the pictures above, just below the left side of the speedo but that doesn't seem to loosen it at all. 

Edited by ossy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even just

https://www.google.com.au/search?source=hp&ei=W5ALX5TvH4a1rQH-j6qYCA&q=r33+under+dash+screws&oq=r33+under+dash+screws&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzoICAAQsQMQgwE6BQgAELEDOgIIADoGCAAQFhAeOggIABAWEAoQHjoFCCEQoAE6BAghEBU6BwghEAoQoAFQ1QVYgyZgjytoAHAAeACAAfABiAGWHJIBBjAuMTguM5gBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwjUiOKb48jqAhWGWisKHf6HCoMQ4dUDCAg&uact=5

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will need custom pistons made, the combustion chamber is to modified for any off the shelf piston to give a good compression ratio 
    • Which is a thing done by no-one ever. Not even remotely a good idea. I would run an engine with 10:1 these days. Good management and fuel compared to the early 90s when these boat motors were designed & built.  
    • I think you misunderstand. This was Greg driving from Melb to Syd (or return) at a constant 100km/h on the highway. Very little throttle movement, very little accel/decel. You should be able to get 8.5 l/100km under those circumstances (which is effectively what he reports - 50L for 600km is 8.3 l/100km). I drive my car to & from work every day, in traffic, on a mixture of 50, 60, 90 km/h roads (and therefore at up to 110km/h!!) with traffic lights and freeway sections. 28 km each way, so about a 30-40 minute drive depending on day, direction and traffic (which is enough for the majority of the drive to be "fully warmed up". I typically get flat 10 l/100km every single week. OK, maybe 10-10.5, every single tank of fuel. RB25DET Neo. It is easy to get acceptable economy. I won't say "good" economy, because modern cars are doing 5-6 l/100km in the same conditions.
    • Superpro are fine. There are some applications (R32 FUCAs for example) where they are no damn good, but typically for any normal suspension bush, they are fine. Some people will complain of them making noise. Some people will complain of them collapsing. But many of those can probably be traced back to not properly lubing at install or other installation problems, or possibly other problems elsewhere in the suspension that put additional load into particular bush. And for the legit complaints? Meh. Deal with it. I had to replace the poly bushes in my R32 FUCAs every year. The real issue is that I am sold on the idea of adjustability of at least upper arms. So I only have spots for poly bushes in lower arms these days, as everything else is either hardened rubber or spherical steel.
    • Suspension really is complicated.... All these considerations are making me over think it all. Again. I reckon I'll wait for SK's response on his coilovers, and go from there. Though if I go MCA, I'll have to decide on whether the extra $600 (voston comforts $1890, mca pro comfort is $2490) is worth it. Just something soft and comfy, yet firm enough when required at the track or a casual old pac drive for a pie... Otherwise, anyone have experience with SuperPro bushings? Needing to replace the bushings on the suspension department... Will probably keep the oem uppercontrol arms etc, and just replace the bushings. 
×
×
  • Create New...