Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK,

Its time for me to buy some stuff off NENGUN. I want to get

Sard 550cc injectors but I am confused about something

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/190

63508

Nissan RB25DET (6 injectors/ long ) - Side Feed - High Impedance (Not suitable For Neo Straight 6 ) RB25DET

63509

Nissan RB25DET (6 injectors/ Short ) - Side Feed - High Impedance (Not suitable For Neo Straight 6 ) OUT OF STOCK 63508 is suitable RB25DET

What the hell is long and short?? Which one should i get?

Next, do i need to buy collars to suit?

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/345

I am also wanting to buy (around now)

- 044 (is the 040 suitable for ~250awkw?)

- Do-luck rear cross brace (not needed, but wanted...anyone know if it makes a difference?)

- Z32 (already bought it)

- Exhaust cam pulley

- Cusco brake cyl stopper

This is in prep for my manual conversion which will mean a PFC is being installed, so ill be seeking a temporary tune of about ~180awkw until i can afford a better turbo. These parts are being bought as supporting for the conversion, anyone else think of something i may need?

Cheers,

Alex

Alex, I can only comment on the FPR, but for ~$150 delivered, the Nismo one is *really* good and is still regarded one of the best ones out there. Mine will be arriving soon.

Um... just thought I'd throw that out there. :)

OK,

Its time for me to buy some stuff off NENGUN. I want to get

Sard 550cc injectors but I am confused about something

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/190

63508

Nissan RB25DET (6 injectors/ long ) - Side Feed - High Impedance (Not suitable For Neo Straight 6 )  RB25DET

 

  63509

Nissan RB25DET (6 injectors/ Short ) - Side Feed - High Impedance (Not suitable For Neo Straight 6 ) OUT OF STOCK 63508 is suitable  RB25DET

What the hell is long and short?? Which one should i get?

Next, do i need to buy collars to suit?

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/345

I am also wanting to buy (around now)

- 044 (is the 040 suitable for ~250awkw?)

- Do-luck rear cross brace (not needed, but wanted...anyone know if it makes a difference?)

- Z32 (already bought it)

- Exhaust cam pulley

- Cusco brake cyl stopper

This is in prep for my manual conversion which will mean a PFC is being installed, so ill be seeking a temporary tune of about ~180awkw until i can afford a better turbo. These parts are being bought as supporting for the conversion, anyone else think of something i may need?

Cheers,

Alex

Hi Alex, my understanding is the Sard injectors that are used in RB25's are equally intended for use in 1/2JZ's, which use a the same shape injector with sligtly smaller external dimensions. So they need adaptor collars to fit RB25's. That is why Sard injectors are cheaper then other brands that fit RB25's, Sard have amortised the cost over the much larger combined volume of RB25's and 1/2JZ's.

:) cheers :D

are RB25 injectors top or side feed??

alex .... if u order the NISMO Fuel pressure reg let me know, as l'll prolly go one too.

Pending the price of the walbro 040 .... you may find it as cheap, or damn close to it out here.

Side feed high impedance for S1, i beleive the NEO's are topfeed

I will be buying my Bosch fuel pump from the sponsors here, but not sure if i should just got he 044 so that i just dont have issues in future..

Chances are i will get the NISMO FPR because the SARD one costs ~350...bugger that, not for 250awkw

Go the Nismo FPR item & looks like top quality, Ive got mine at home (with an Apexi fmic, Z32 afm, turbo for a GT30 rebuild, and Apexi SITC) waiting to go on my car.

If you're doing the fuel pump, do the high pressure fuel lines as well, as per SK's suggestion. $100-odd for the lines and double clamps is cheap insurance, if you're putting more pressure thru the lines.

I too am wondering which fuel pump to buy, the 040 or 044. Only after 180-200awkw, but the GT30 rebuilt turbo will be able to supprt more than that.......

well, the 040 is ment for up to 500hp, the 044 over that to 1000, so i will be going with the 040 for $220 or $230, around that

I wonder what type of shop i should look for to do the fuel lines for me? I dont know if my workshop would be the best place to replace fuel lines..??

Would the fuel lines be something i could easily for at home?

This is the FPR we are all talking about right? http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/21

PS. Does anyone know where the fuel filter is? I would like to change it on my next service.

Edited by AlexCim

SK said, $100 would cover lines and double clamps at each end to the following:

(use 2 X stainless steel clamps (they are ~$3 each) on each end of the hose)

1. from the pump to the steel fuel line in the boot.

2. from the steel fuel line to the fuel filter (under the plenum)

3. from the fuel filter to the steel fuel line around the plenum

4. from the stell fuel line on the plenum to the fuel rail.

The Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator on Nengun recently cost me $163 incl delivery. Was specifically to suit the RB25.

Whoever does the fuel pump can easily do the fuel lines.... I dont trust myself, so my workshop will do it (they are general service mechanics who happen to drive Skylines).

Ah, yes, stupid Celsiors kept me thinking it was somewhere under the boot!

Where would i buy these fuel lines? Sounds like a job that i will do myself, as i will give the pump a go too.

BTW, i dont see any rb specific NISMO FPR, only the one in the link above.

That link doesnt go anywhere as such as it'd be for your personal account, Ive got the following item, but it is not fitted up as yet so I cant state for a fact that it'll bolt straight up (Im 100% it will):

1 x Nismo - Fuel Regulator

Nismo Fuel Regulator 22670-RR580 AU $ 144.57 plus Paypal fee (plus delivery by memory) ended up being around $160+

As for fuel lines, maybe contact Sydneykid and ask where he goes to. Im leaving that all for the shop (Im time poor being a fulltime worker, parent, student, etc etc).

Good luck with it mate, I reckon I'l just go the $230 #040 Bosch fuel pump, and I wont go Walbro as I cant be sure it'd be a genuine Walbro and not a cheap copy.

RB25DET have 2 types of injectors, one for the Neo, one for R33 RB25det. Neo is top feed, and also a one off size. Nismo make a 480cc for the neo. Sard do one that will fit with a bit of modding to the rail.

For r33 ones, they are side feed and you have to buy collars and get the long ones if you choose Sard.

The Nismo FPR we use is part #22670-RR580. It bolts onto the end of the fuel rail, replacing the standard FPR. That same part number fits SR20, RB26 and RB25 fuel rails.

The picture that Nengun have on their web site is not of part #22670-RR580, this is a picture of a real #22670-RR580

Nismo_AFPR.jpg

The Bosch 040 in tank should do the job for 250 4wkw, you can use the standard wiring with 040's to get high and low flow rates. They don't draw the same current as 044's.

High pressure, fuel injection hose can be bought from any parts shop (Repco, AutoOne, AutoPro, AutoBarn, SupaCheap etc) or any hose shop (Enzed, Pirtec etc). They also have suitable stainless steel clamps. I use 2 clamps per joint up to 45 psi fuel pressure. Over that I go to screw on fittings, I don't trust slide on hoses and clamps. Fuel fires are nasty.

You won't need an adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (AFPR) or hoses or clamps if you are using appropriately sized injectors and fuel pump. The standard stuff will hanble it just fine, becasue you are not raising the fuel pressure. You only need an AFPR (to raise the fuel pressure) if you need to push the injectors (just a little, never a lot ) to make the power target.

These are the three styles of injectors used in RB's. From left to right, the top feed RB25 NEO style (all blue), the side feed RB25 (non NEO) style (pink/purple top) and the top feed RB20/26 style (blue top).

RB_Injectors.jpg

As you can see they are not physically interchangeable. The side feed RB25 (non NEO) style injector is high impedance, the top feed RB20 is also high impedance but the RB26 style top feed is low impedance (ie; needs a resistor pack).

I hope that answered all of the questions

:P cheers :(

sk ive been wondering if a FPR is needed on a 600-700hp at wheels engine with 1000cc injectors? or is only for that simple reason of pushing the injectors that little extra bit?

always wondered ;)

You won't need an AFPR, the injector flow rate of 1,000 cc's is measured at standard fuel pressure (36-38 psi), that's above boost. eg 38psi fuel pressure + 20 psi boost = 58 psi. Bosch pump's flow is rated at 73.5 psi. The quick (in a 6 cylinder) calcs;

1000 cc's = 1,000 bhp - 115 bhp for losses (the most I have ever seen in a GTR) = 885 4whp (660 4wkw).

You have penty of injector overhead, almost 200 bhp of it.

The only reason you might want to upgrade the FPR is accuracy of holding the fuel pressure at higher boost levels. Nothing to do with flow regulation or pushing injectors to higher than their rated flow.

:) cheers :)

So, because i will be getting 550cc injectors (NISMO striaght fit) you dont think i will need the FRP?

I wanted to mount a 044 intank, but after reading a thread "too big a fuel pump" i will just get the 040 intank.

If in future i need to (for whatever reason) i can just use the 040 intank, surge tank, and an 044 from the surge tank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...