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Im new to the forum just got myself a kick ass Skyline GT-T R34 through jlimports.com.au the guy there james helped me out heaps every step of the way and i save myself a lot of cash, looked at getting through autoworx but i found myself saving about $1500 through these guys.

I have a few japanese housemates, and they all tell me the same thing. 80K on a car that's 10 yrs old? Extremely Rare. They agreed if the car was based in tokyo, then it would be possible, but if the car is based in the suburbs and all, it's highly impossible, the odometer would definitely be tuned. And this is comming from pple who are from Japan. I agree that there are cars with low kms, but it's rare. Most of the logbooks and stuff are faked too from what they say. So it really depends on your luck if you get a true k's or a faked k's. There's a way to tell if it's real or faked, something to do with taking out the speedos i think.

Cheers! =)

<snip>

So it really depends on your luck if you get a true k's or a faked k's. There's a way to tell if it's real or faked, something to do with taking out the speedos i think.

Cheers! =)

If the kms are wound back say a small amount, there's probably no way to tell, but if they've been wound back a lot, it's of course easier. I've been told it's quite easy to tell based on the condition of the interior. Even if they have been wound back 10,000km, it's not that much anyway.

I was talking to a guy a few weeks ago that has been importing cars for about 6 years now (and imported over 250 cars), he was saying that things like the handbrake boot on average will start to split a little at around xx,xxxkm, the steering wheel will start to show wear at xx,xxxkm, series I R33 seat bolster shows wear at xx,xxxkm, series II R33's seats wear at around 15,000km less than series I, etc etc and continued on - to give about 6 or 7 examples of how you can tell whether the km's are roughly genuine or not.

As he said, "We can tell you whether we believe that the km's are genuine, but can never be 100% certain"

As long as when I import a car, I find that the conditon of the car matches the kms, I'll be happy.

A workshop in Perth is just waiting for an inspection in the next 2 to 4 weeks and they will be able to comply R32's (1992 plus) and compliance should be priced well but a lot more work goes into a car then the 15 year rule.

Is there a differance between the 89/90/91 models and the 92 plus? besides the type-m editions etc?

just wondering for those people who get R33 compliance, what did you pay for? i know it;s around $4K plus GST, anyone find it cheaper?

it funny that people charge different price for a same model car...

i got quote for jza80 from downunder for 4.5k and my friend got it for 3.5k, may be r33 can be get it cheaper? they got 100 plates per year....

If the kms are wound back say a small amount, there's probably no way to tell, but if they've been wound back a lot, it's of course easier. I've been told it's quite easy to tell based on the condition of the interior. Even if they have been wound back 10,000km, it's not that much anyway.

I was talking to a guy a few weeks ago that has been importing cars for about 6 years now (and imported over 250 cars), he was saying that things like the handbrake boot on average will start to split a little at around xx,xxxkm, the steering wheel will start to show wear at xx,xxxkm, series I R33 seat bolster shows wear at xx,xxxkm, series II R33's seats wear at around 15,000km less than series I, etc etc and continued on - to give about 6 or 7 examples of how you can tell whether the km's are roughly genuine or not.

As he said, "We can tell you whether we believe that the km's are genuine, but can never be 100% certain"

As long as when I import a car, I find that the conditon of the car matches the kms, I'll be happy.

This is exactly what the guy at autoworx told me. I reckon the handbrake boot is a pretty good indicator, I noticed once at another prominent dealership that all their Skylines had the handbrake boots removed. The rubber on the pedals is another good indicator and also look for the timing belt service sticker.

Im new to the forum just got myself a kick ass Skyline GT-T R34 through jlimports.com.au the guy there james helped me out heaps every step of the  way and i save myself a lot of cash, looked at getting through autoworx but i found myself saving about $1500 through these guys.

JL Imports have only been a company since April this year so not exactly a company that has been around a while and I would love to have the choice of 100,000 to 150,000 vehicles in a week when I am looking for cars.

"With our service we can provide you access to 100 - 150,000 vehicles available each week at auctions all over Japan."

More "Brokers" popping now then ever and how could you save $1,500 as you could only say that if you were quoted on the same car and why was their $1,500 difference.

Who complyied your car and what did they charge.

  • 4 weeks later...

It's been a while since anyone posted on this thread, but I thought I'd let you guys know that I've just picked up a car at yesterdays auction... 1996 GTS-t Series 2, 2Dr Manual, grade 4.5... with 20,960 kms. Not one blemish on the entire body (not one single mark shown on the auction sheet), Grade B interior, Aftermarket exhaust, clutch, adjustable suspension. Should have it on the road for just over $22K

So to those people who said that you cant get a car with low kms, this is proof that you can... if you are patient. This car took 5 weeks to find which was actually quicker than I expected.

I initially had a requirement of under 50,000km so when I managed to get this I was extremely pleased, especially when it's a grade 4.5

To nelleh and everyone else - Good luck in your searching. You WILL find exactly what you want if you're prepared to wait.

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