Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

A front bar support is a thing that bolts to the chassis and holds up the bar (usually no actually connection from the support to the bar).

Mine is made of fiberglass composite and I got it from "JS" for $220.

My experience with JS was less bad but I'm sure I can find someone in my local area (ie. Silverwater).

T.

Guest 382 GZV - 4 Door R33

Does anyone know a place in Queensland whio are good to get bar work done at? I've been to two you were apparently 'good' but they suc for service and quality and now I'm thinking i may have to wait to summernats when i go down south to get any work done...

Now I'm worried. I've got a UAS GTR fibreglass front bar which clearly had to be fitted by having a large centre section of the metal bar that runs behind it chopped out of it. No doubt that dramatically reduces the strength of the framework.

Unfortunately I did have a prang the other week and it certainly seems clear looking at the damage that the metal bar did nothing to relieve the impact in any way. It's just totally buckled. Now I'm in a panic to see if the insurer is going to kick up a stink and tell me that the car cannot be insured for the accident because of this mod. I'm so not calm at the moment!

If anyone has something to say to make me feel better....

Originally posted by slayer_1971

I thought that the front bar support also helps in front colisions

I don't think this fiberglass support is gonna do shit unless the accident is like at walking pace...

The car was COMPLETELY unsafe prior to the support - at least something is holding the bar up and them is some crumpling of the support if there is a big hit.

This really is a dilemma - I don't know if the steel support should be refitted or is this good as it gets?

T.

I really don't know if you know what you are talking about Regan. I have a friend who has been fitting body kits for years....especially Skylines, and the idea of putting an after market frontbar on is so that it looks different to other Skylines. He says that of course you have to cut the support bar to fit them because THEY ARE DIFERENT! If you don't want to cut the support bar then don't fit an after market frontbar! I also see in one of your posts (see following post) that you sell a frontbar THAT YOU HAVE TO CUT THE SUPPORT BAR!! So obviously you think its OK to cut them, BECAUSE YOU SELL THEM.

regan

Newbie

Registered: Jan 2003

Location: Mt Lawley w.a

Car: soarer

R33/Nismo bar

Hi

The front bars are $580.00 incl GST freight to Melb would not be cheap @$80-120 I think ,

Note*** these bars do require some front crash bar modifications to fit and would need some additional supports to be fitted.

Cheers

Regan

My friend also says that he doesn't fit small support struts underneath as it makes it even more rigid which does greater damage if you run into a kerb. Without the support struts there is more give allowing it to flex a little when you hit something. Fibreglass frontbars are so light that they don't need many bolts/screws to hold them on anyway.

Jim

  • 2 weeks later...

has anyone got a pic of what this support is exactly?

Im a prospective r33 buyer, and im curious as to what your reffering to.

I know that the soarers have a large aluminium reinforced rectangular section bolting on to the front chassis rails which supports the front bar. Im visualising something similar for the r33, but im not sure exactly.

Thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey Regan, my brother bought his skyline from you a few years back :-) hows it going

I had exactly the problem you talk about with my car (i'm in melbourne), i only found out about it when someone ran into the front of my car in a low speed impact and tore most of the front kit up, it was poorly fitted at the front and screwed into just the headlight structure, with the front bar cut out :-P Luckily it was the other driver at fault so i got it repaired properly for free with the bar restored and reinforced with side struts too

hey jim the support bar may be the only thing diffusing the impact to the sides enough so that the engine doesnt crash through the firewall into your crotch in a big impact so hey, if you don't miss it thats your problem

  • 1 month later...

My front bumper support has been removed I think...I got the kit and car from Just Jap..and I am guessing they removed it...

So are you saying that a front mount counts as support and if i get it inspected it will be alright/legal again???

Or can I get a front bumper support put on??

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...