Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, not a big deal but something i still would like to fix. just installed a new dvd player and moniter, when its all switched off you can hear the alternator whine through the headunit i think, but when switched on even with no volume it goes away. just wondering if you guys have any ideas, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i know if you have the alternator whine coming through your amp you run the rca lead and the power lead down different sides of the car... but dont know how u could apply this to your problem... a little food for thought

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1683647
Share on other sites

thanks for your response, it does seem like some sort of interfearence problem. havent rechecked anything yet but will do soon after it goes back on the dyno. it isnt a daily driver and i only play with it when i have nothing to do so im not in a big rush. thanks.

Russell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1684579
Share on other sites

get a new balist resistor for the back of you alternator its a little cylinder attached to it. Next bad earth somewhere (dirty) most likley your remote lead from head unit to amp. Next power cables to clost to speaker or rca leads. They pick up signals from power cables and play in the speakers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1694407
Share on other sites

if you havent had any problem's with whining in this car before and theres no-interferance anywhere from an outside source, its most likly a grounding problem as mentioned ealier, it could also be a power leak somewhere into either the ground loop or the 12+ loop, if re-grounding everything up mabye try running just one long wire from the gound of the dvd unit straight to the earth in the battery just temporaraly if the whine goes away its a problem with your ground loop, so try gorunding in a different spot or use a different route, if it still occurs it could be a 12+ problem which is more difficult to fix, if possible try a different power source, if all fail's find somone who has an ossiliscope thingy which meausers your power/ earth frequency's and try and source where the interfeerance is comming from, other than that mabye it is an alternator causeed problem, which i doubt if the sound does go away, another possibility is you may have your remote wire plugged (or any of the dvd wires) into the wrong spot and so it could cause some sort of feedback when the unit is off but then when it is turned this wire could react different with constant current running down it, i know i had this problem one time when i grouned a mates head unit up to what seemed to be an earth wire n turned out to be an accessory wire which stayed earth untill activated, if all fails try temporarly installing the dvd unit to an external sources (another car, or threw a computer -- or some sort of 12 power sorce) and make sure the gear isnt the problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92293-funny-one/#findComment-1698808
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...