Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Try Chris at Tasman Checkpoint in Brunswick. No one else is even allowed to go near my car for repairs bar him. Excellent prices, excellent work and excellent service. Tell him you're a mate of mine and he will look after you.

Call 9387 1955

Jenna

hey guys im lookin for a place thats pretty decent and not overpriced in melb

got told my candy gold job is gonna cost me 12k and isnt gonna get started until xmas so im gonna look somewhere else

12k for candy gold? jesus

really worth paying that much?

Ill prolly get flamed for this, but a tip my mate told me to get a good looking job done on the cheap is to paint the car in a normal acrylic then apply a 2pac pearl over it, makes it look like a full 2pac paintjob :O

Mate had a red car and painted it red acrylic and applied 2pac pink pearl over the top, the painter said hed be able to tell people it was a full 2pac job.

Thing is i dont think beaters like doing this for people.

lol... i bought some midnite purple from protec in moorabin... only ost me $210 all up for 4 litre but im a bit wary that this isnt gonna be good enough for my car.... wheres troy when u need advice...

lol... i bought some midnite purple from protec in moorabin... only ost me $210 all up for 4 litre but im a bit wary that this isnt gonna be good enough for my car.... wheres troy when u need advice...

did that include primer and catalyst/hardner?

u looking to spray yourself?

spraying standard paints isnt that hard.. candy jobs look pretty sweet but i dont know if theyre worth 3x the mount of a standard full job.

i was going to buy the candy pearls from the states and try it out on my car and see how it comes out... then when that all blows up in my face, sand it back and paint it satin black lol

when i get my 33, ill be lookin for a shit heap to drive to work everyday as well....and i had this brilliant idea....im gonna buy a heap of cans of spray paint, like the shit you use on calipers etc, and im gonna paint the car in it. lol...I was thinkin bright green. then im gonna spray the bonnet black B)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...