Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, on the weekend im going to be removing my stock r33 cooler and upgrading it with an r34 gtt intercooler, so it will sit in the same position. Just wondering whats the easiest way to pull out the cooler and what exactly needs to be done, I dont really feel like taking off the front bar :s

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92656-removing-stovk-r33-intercooler/
Share on other sites

if you undo the undertray you can get the IC out without too much trouble. you definitely won't need to remove the front bar to change IC's. it is easier to get the cooler off but it takes longer if you take the bar off.

while you have the undertray and guard "loosened off" the car cut out the vent at the the front of the wheel arch and pop rivet some mesh in its place. this should help with air flow thru stock position.

you mean the like grilled air vents directly behind the cooler and wheel? put some mesh there? make the hole bigger at all or anything ?

sounds like a good idea.

will have to jack her up and have a good look at it

I did this recently.

You will need to take the plastic cover behind the intercooler in the wheel arch off. I haven't bothered to put it back on but up to you.

What you do need to do is detach most of the airbox so that you can loosen the hose clamps enough to pull the intercooler out from under neath.

What can be tricky is pulling the intercooler out from the factory hoses. They have been stuck together for ten years or so and require some effort.

To put the new intercooler on I found that softening up the rubber hose in hot water helped.

Overall an easy job but awkward as you dont have much room.

Removing the wheel will help.

Take a look at this thread, it is about doing the same as you are in a Stagea, same pipework, same intercoolers.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=69501

:D cheers :)

I did this recently.

You will need to take the plastic cover behind the intercooler in the wheel arch off. I haven't bothered to put it back on but up to you.

What you do need to do is detach most of the airbox so that you can loosen the hose clamps enough to pull the intercooler out from under neath.

What can be tricky is pulling the intercooler out from the factory hoses. They have been stuck together for ten years or so and require some effort.

To put the new intercooler on I found that softening up the rubber hose in hot water helped.

Overall an easy job but awkward as you dont have much room.

Removing the wheel will help.

do you notice an improvment?

just pull the front bar off, easy as if u do it caus then there is no need to jack the car up or to take the wheel off

all done in 5 mins, if that :D

b4 u put in the gtt ic in, have a quick look over the fins to see if any are bent, if there are any just use a flat head screwdriver and leaver them straight. this will help with the flow also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...