Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah in the end cruises go no where, competition is where it is. Does SAU WA have what it takes to become a competing club? Except for the people that already do, id hope so. Myself however im not skilled enough to be a passable circuit racer. An import drag racing scene is something i would like to help establish, but it needs to be a national thing, or ANDRA

Originally posted by RB20LagWagon

We already have meets, group buys, get good prices from dealers that post here etc etc, how is paying money into a group going to make this better. I dont think lining the pockets of insurance companies and auditors is worth it just so we can say "oh look we are an offical club"

this is the major hurdle that has stopped us everytime

people see these deals find there cheap supplier and are quite happy turning up for the odd cruise all for free.

there are pros and cons for both sides its up to us as a whole to decide if its worth the time to set up and what direction we want for a club. Will it be broad ranged so ricers and racers can commune together or will one faction be seen as an outcast etc.

with the cams affiliation u need to be an incorperated body or they want look at u. also your constitution has to be accepted by cams.

cams allows u to run your own events eg we could have a SAU hillclimb or motorkhana.

we can issue level 2 licences and also help people train to become accreditted motorsport officals. CAMS covers most of our motorsport needs and can help on the social side as being CAMS affiliated provided either 20million or 200million PLI as part of the deal for cruise or club events what ever they may be.

u don't have to do it every other weekend

the nissan car club mainly 4wd ie patrol oriented has one motorkhana a year and afew offroad rallys and thats it.

anyways i seem to have chucked the info out.

CAMS and the Ministry of Fair Trading send out info packs filled with all the info you need.

yeah the DOCEP one was the pack i had b4

they send out all the forms, a skeleton constitution etc

then with the cams affiliation pack u get another example constitution and u just take the best bits of both like NSW did and your most of the way there with the paper work.

Hi peeps,

just thought I'd throw in my $0.02.

I was part of the team that set up the NSW club. We decided early on that what we wanted was a fully fledged club that included social, competition, non-competition, training, etc., events.

To do any of these you need insurance and CAMS is very cost effective insurance. For the competition events you also need licenses, so CAMS once again was necessary. There is also the benefit of having your PLI for club meetings (i.e. monthly meetings, social nights etc.) included in the annual fee (no extra cost).

As it stands today cruises, or any time the club organises a drive, require PLI. Seems crazy I know but we live in strange times. CAMS is seeking clarification on this with their insurers, but don't hold your breath.

Now to get CAMS affiliation you need to jump through a few hoops. Getting approval from Nissan Oz to use the Skyline name is one thing, writing the Club Rules and Constitution is another.

Look through some other clubs' rules and pick out what you want. CAMS supply a basic framework which I built on for the NSW Rules. Cut and paste ours if you like. Just make sure they suit YOU is the main thing.

Good Luck and see you at the Skyline Nationals in 200X. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...