Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

As far as i know, yes, it will fit for you. There is one guy that is using an R33 kit.

Though, dont go ahead and cut a hole in the chassis too quickly, its easy to get a defect. Do what humble will do and use the kit/cooler etc, but get one pipe made custom to go under and then up to the cooler, like my pipes

  • 2 weeks later...

we fitted a 600x300x76 cooler to our stagea.

used a r33 piping kit with some of the standard stagea bends.

fitted up pretty well.

had to cut out sum of the support to make the cooler fit, but overall it wasn't that hard to do.post-25826-1141479214.jpg

Ian

we had the same problem with the drivers side, passenger side was easy

yea no need to cut a hole under the battery.

it took us bout 3 hrs to figure out which bends would go where on the drivers side for the best possible fit with no cutting needed.

only thing we had to do was chop some of the standard plumbing

don't have any pics at the moment but I could get out in the next couple of days and take a few for you.

was not that hard when we sat down and thought it out and then tried and tested several ways til we got it spot on.

Edited by Mum's Taxi

Have 90% finished installing my cooler today. I bought an R33 kit from just ja[ for $499 (bit of a bargain if you ask me). Still need to trim the fan then it will be complete.

I didn't bother cutting too much out of the support bar at this stage as I don't think I will really need it yet. Further down the track I will probably open it up again and chop away.

Only problem I had was the AC fan not fitting with the core there. I decided it will just be easier to buy a smaller thermo fan from the wreckers or something. AC isn't essential so I will worry about it later...

and some photos...

post-809-1141557276.jpgpost-809-1141557296.jpgpost-809-1141557316.jpg

Edited by Talej
Have 90% finished installing my cooler today. I bought an R33 kit from just ja[ for $499 (bit of a bargain if you ask me). Still need to trim the fan then it will be complete.

I didn't bother cutting too much out of the support bar at this stage as I don't think I will really need it yet. Further down the track I will probably open it up again and chop away.

Only problem I had was the AC fan not fitting with the core there. I decided it will just be easier to buy a smaller thermo fan from the wreckers or something. AC isn't essential so I will worry about it later...

and some photos...

post-809-1141557276.jpgpost-809-1141557296.jpgpost-809-1141557316.jpg

hey mate easiest option is to chop the front support bar abit to alow it to come forward and therefore keeping the air con fan etc in place. its not visable from outside with bumper on so cops cant defect u or nuthin, and its strong as hell and only holding the bumper.

hey mate easiest option is to chop the front support bar abit to alow it to come forward and therefore keeping the air con fan etc in place. its not visable from outside with bumper on so cops cant defect u or nuthin, and its strong as hell and only holding the bumper.

I didn't do it that way because then the brackets won't line up. Just easier to get a smaller fan.

talej

wat size cooler are you installing?

we installed a 600x300x76 cooler to our stag

and i don't remember havin that problem

as alexcim said you might be best tiltin the cooler

anyway i'll post some pics up this arvo of our engine bay and under drivers side for you humble..

Talej

have you cut under the battery?

can you get some pics of the piping from inside the engine bay and under the car on direvers side too??

listen to me, soo demanding..

PLEEEEASE

thanks

Ian

Yes the piping goes through a hole cut under the batter. I will get some photos for you later...

  • 1 year later...

Any one done a FMIC install with a front facing plenum?

im pretty keen to find out every thing i can, what and where i would need to cut etc please post up any pics you have and show me where the pipes would come through. Also if you could recomend a kit to suit a stagea with a front facing plenum that would be TOPS cheers guys and thanks for any help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...