Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

before anyone says anything I have searched, but I have come across an issue not covered so I feel it warrants a new topic.

after installing a NC relay from the TT on the alarm ignition sense wire and when the car is running, wouldnt the relay still be powered? (and hence open), therefore the alarm would think the car is not running.

Ive shown my reasoning for this the second part of the attached diagram

Im asking about this as I wish to retain my auto arm feature, yet I dont want my car to arm the alarm 2min after I drive off.

Im thinking the installation of the relay is different from as I have drawn, so If anyone could correct me I would be much appreciative.

cheers

tt25bt.th.jpg

Edited by midnight
before anyone says anything I have searched, but I have come across an issue not covered so I feel it warrants a new topic.

after installing a NC relay from the TT on the alarm ignition sense wire and when the car is running, wouldnt the relay still be powered? (and hence open), therefore the alarm would think the car is not running.

Ive shown my reasoning for this the second part of the attached diagram

Im asking about this as I wish to retain my auto arm feature, yet I dont want my car to arm the alarm 2min after I drive off.

Im thinking the installation of the relay is different from as I have drawn, so If anyone could correct me I would be much appreciative.

cheers

tt25bt.th.jpg

do it this way. I take it you do not have a fuel cut on the alarm? if so then you have a problem.

this is how I get timers to work. HOWEVER if you have a 3pt item IT WILL NOT WORK. ( nor do you need it if you have a mongoose.m80)

see attachment:

post-2209-1130753283.jpg

Ive had a think about this,

Can't I just additionally install a NO relay on the fuel pump feed wire, across where it has been cut to accomodate the alarm?

That way the alarm wont cut the fuel pump until the timer has finished counting down.

Do any alarms activate fuel cut only when the car has been breached? Or, do they all activate fuel cut upon arming? Is it possible to only cut certain points when the car is breached, and not simply when the alarm is armed?

Thanks (hopefully you understand what I mean).

midnght,

yes you can. HOWEVER. hide the wire that feeds it VERY well.

mikymouse,

depends on the alarm. 90% of them do it on arming. in regard to you certain points question. this is the basics of quiktrak system. IGN,Starter are done and the fuel or other system is done remotely.

Ok, let's say the alarm cuts the points on arming. If you want to have remote start and still have a point of immobilization going to the fuel pump, is it possible to install a relay going to the fuel pump that cuts the fuel pump's power when the siren is given power. hmm.. actually on second thought, might not be such a good idea, as the siren usually beeps on arming. Is there anything else it could be wired to?

best to leave the idea alone. look at it this way- If I find out where you live I can take the car in an instant seeing as you have already done most of the hard work for me bypassing the alarm..

do it this way. I take it you do not have a fuel cut on the alarm? if so then you have a problem.

this is how I get timers to work. HOWEVER if you have a 3pt item IT WILL NOT WORK. ( nor do you need it if you have a mongoose.m80)

see attachment:

Hey chris. what did you mean you wont need it if you have an M80? i saw something in the description for the m80 that it has turbo timer interface....does that mean it has something to hook up to a turbo timer without any hassles?

do it this way. I take it you do not have a fuel cut on the alarm? if so then you have a problem.

this is how I get timers to work. HOWEVER if you have a 3pt item IT WILL NOT WORK. ( nor do you need it if you have a mongoose.m80)

see attachment:

Hey Guys, This thread helped me as the fool who own my car previously wired the ignition imobilisation to the starter motor. so the car would arm 30 seconds after starting the car. No wonder he didn't have the siren connected!! You couldn't restart it if you stalled unless you unarmed it , but then again you could roll start it anyway! Great security. Anyway, Thanks to the thread I rewired my alarm using a relay. I could not make sense of the diagram provided by Chris Rodgers but this is how I did mine and it works a treat. you can arm it with the engine still running and It wont set of the alarm either. if you put the key back in the ignition after arming it - it will still cut out. You might be able to integrate a fuel cut but I don't know. You might be able to utilise a 555 timer from jaycar which might give you a fuel cut time delay, or simply another turbo timer connected where your fuel ut is.

Anyway - here's my wiring.

post-19015-1131196773.jpg

Edited by chrissso

Hey chris. what did you mean you wont need it if you have an M80? i saw something in the description for the m80 that it has turbo timer interface....does that mean it has something to hook up to a turbo timer without any hassles?

yep the option is there for it. have a read in the book when yours gets to you and its option 13. you still need the timer.

Hey Guys,  This thread helped me as the fool who own my car previously wired the ignition imobilisation to the starter motor. so the car would arm 30 seconds after starting the car.  No wonder he didn't have the siren connected!!  You couldn't restart it if you stalled unless you unarmed it , but then again you could roll start it anyway! Great security.  Anyway,  Thanks to the thread I rewired my alarm using a relay.  I could not make sense of the diagram provided by Chris Rodgers but this is how I did mine and it works a treat.  you can arm it with the engine still running and It wont set of the alarm either. if you put the key back in the ignition after arming it  -  it will still cut out.  You might be able to integrate a fuel cut but I don't  know.  You might be able to utilise a 555 timer from jaycar which might give you a fuel cut time delay,  or simply another  turbo timer connected where your fuel ut is.

Anyway - here's my wiring.

post-19015-1131196773.jpg

thats pretty much what I had done. I left the alarm out of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...