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Trying to make it to the 300rwkw mark with current turbo setup, will cams help me out and when will they help me out?

Overall just want opinions, what should I upgrade? Greddy plenum? Cams? etc..

dyno result for my R32 with an RB25 series 2 motor.

Engine management: Apexi Power FC

-Boost ran: 15psi

-Fuel used: BP Ultimate (98 octane)

-engine mods:

- Z32 AFM

- Sard 550cc injectors

- Aftermarket fuel pump (not sure what it is, but definately aftermarket)

- HKS Front mount intercooler

- Greddy induction kit

- Trust TD06-20g turbo

- Trust High mount exhaust manifold

- Greddy external wastegate with screamer pipe

- 3" exhaust from turbo back with high flow cat

Got 251.4rwkw's

The tune is not very agressive but that's what I wanted as the motor is internally stock from what I can tell (thus not wanting to run hige amount of boost through the motor). Also has 2 way LSD and Tein HR coilovers.. mmmmm

Here is the dyno chart:

smalldyno.jpg

Any opinions welcome?

Greg

More boost is the only way u are gonna make over 300rwkw.

It takes around 21psi for my GT30 to make over 300rwkw on my internally stock RB25

Doesn't necessarily have to be 300rwkw's but to get closer to that mark,

Eg. How much will cams and cam gears help me out?

P.S is 21psi alright on stock internals? :)

Greg

considering i made 270rwkw on only 17psi with a stock RB25 head.

cams are not "needed" they will give you a value add however. but your not going to magically see power without more boost

If you want 300, as inasnt said. You gonna have to mash boost down it

you can definately see that its hell laggy.

My GT30 came on heaps earlier and smoother

P.S is 21psi alright on stock internals?  :)

he doesnt run that daily on the street thoigh :D

No-one should run that much daily on a stock 25. its a time bomb otherwise

a set of cams would add the power and let you make more power without so much boost. i wouldnt think a std headgasket would hold up on such high boost alone. I believe the general consensus is that 300kw is borderline for internally stock rb25.

the chart looks like most bush turbo dyno runs...mine is much the same. power goes ..weak.weak.weak...slightly better then weak and BAM balls to the wall!!! and skyrockets to redline pulling all the way...mine made similar power to yours about 260oddKW on 17psi. That was on a chinese turbo which has now ceased up after 4 months of use so now its ballbearing time:)

Alright... Interesting... Any more suggestions/opinions/comments?

Once it's on boost it BOOGIES!!!

From 4,000rpms where there is 100rwkw's to 5,000rpms where there is 200rwkw's!!

Greg

Doesn't necessarily have to be 300rwkw's but to get closer to that mark,

Eg. How much will cams and cam gears help me out?

P.S is 21psi alright on stock internals?  :angry:

Greg

Yes i only run around 14 psi for 255rwkw on the street when the car actually get driven on the streets these days.

U will also find that 300rwkw in a rwd is preety pointless driving day to day just cruising around, especially with the price of petrol these days.

Remember boost is just a measure of resistance so the better u can get the air in and out the engine the less boost u will require to make your intended power figure.

Guy I know down here has an R33, i don't know exact specs but its definately got forgies, tomei cams and cam gears, runs a TD06-20g...

anyway that originally made 262.5rwkw on 13.2 psi using a jap chipped ecu...

he then had Splitfire coils and a Haltech put in it and most importantly a decent clutch and it pulled 300.2rwkw on 17.2 psi not to mention this is on our awesome 95RON Fuel, reckon he can get more out of it easily, but needs more boost, and better fuel

not to mention needs a decent tune for the street as his missus uses it as a daily driver.

cams are not "needed" they will give you a value add however. but your not going to magically see power without more boost

Thats interesting - I always thought of boost as a measurement of restriction? If you get higher lift cams (and get the ECU tuned for the change) - won't the engine be able to allow more air in at the same boost level?

argh... what i mean is (better english ill try) even if he gets the cams.

He is still gonig to have to screw more boost in there if he wants to get to 300, as in he wont get what he wants, cams or no cams.

argh... what i mean is (better english ill try) even if he gets the cams.

He is still gonig to have to screw more boost in there if he wants to get to 300, as in he wont get what he wants, cams or no cams.

But they will help with power on the same amount of boost as I am on now? (15psi max)

Cheers,

Greg

Yes i only run around 14 psi for 255rwkw on the street when the car actually get driven on the streets these days.

U will also find that 300rwkw in a rwd is preety pointless driving day to day just cruising around, especially with the price of petrol these days.

Remember boost is just a measure of resistance so the better u can get the air in and out the engine the less boost u will require to make your intended power figure.

Yes i only run around 14 psi for 255rwkw on the street when the car actually get driven on the streets these days.

U will also find that 300rwkw in a rwd is preety pointless driving day to day just cruising around, especially with the price of petrol these days.

Remember boost is just a measure of resistance so the better u can get the air in and out the engine the less boost u will require to make your intended power figure.

WTF! :P

My stock looking rb25/vg30 hi-flow combo makes 270rwkw at 15psi. Boost intially spikes to 17psi but just b4 it makes peak power (@6300rpm) it has dropped down to 15psi. The curve is then almost dead flat (@270rwkw) till the rev limiter (7200rpm). For now we have dropped the boost down, to acheive about 255rwkw, to ensure the std bottom end lasts a year (hopefully :( ).

Once the bottom end requires a rebuild, i plan to run about 20psi, adjust the inlet and outlet cam gears and fine tune the ecu (only a couple of runs where done to acheive the 270, there was still a lot of room for some better tunning, but i was happy with the result and didn't want to push the std bottom end too hard, with too many dyno runs). Also the Wolf is able to keep the boost stable by adjusting it per rpm range. This will be done when the bottom end is strengthened. Hopefully i will be then tickling the 300rwkw mark B)

Beutty of it all............... Still looks like a very lightly tunned rb25. You can only spot the Nismo adj fuel reg (only because of the adjustment bolt), fmic, oil cooler, custom air box and turbo-smart plumb-back BOV. The rest is 100% stock looking, apart from a little powder coating.

i'm in the process of trying to get 380 to 400 rwh/p out of my 33s2 so far this is what i've got,

-t3/t4 hybrid turbo hyflowed(rated at 450h/p)

-link ecu

-3' exhaust (turbo back) (race spec)

-e-boost 1

-Greddy plenum

-q45 throttle body

-nismo 720 cc injecters

-walbro fuel pump

-256 pon cams (8.5m/m lift)

-custom side mount turbo manifold

-sard fuel pressure reg

-hks adjustable cam gear

and a few other odds and ends but from what i've found out so far is that the most boost you should run safely day to day is around 18 psi thats about what i plan to run and see what i get but what i'm saying is that there is an endless list of parts and mods that you can do to your ride but be happy with what you get you will only get out as much as you put in and on a stock bottom end it's better to be safe than sorry so don't set yourself goals on a budget.......... :)

Got a print out of your dyno graph you can post up al?

Whats are the specs of your VG30?

Graph below :P

Turbo is just a rb25 hi-flow with the slightly larger VG30 exhaust housing. Bolts on just like the std turbo, with absolutely no modifications :(

post-1811-1131193923.jpg

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