Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a GT30r with a VG30 back end on it... I hope to make about 270rwkw on about 14psi-15psi... You think this is possible? The GT30r has a .7 compressor cover and is rated at 550hp. The brand new core, cover and VG30 fitted to the back cost me $1300.

Running an excellent exhaust and intake, fuel pump, 550cc nismo's and getting tuned with a powerfc and a datalogit...

You think I'll push 270 rwkw?

Edited by The Mafia

The Mafia: I wouldn't know :(, best ask someone in the trade.

There are a few "hidden" mods to acheive that figure, so it is not a case of just bolting up a vg30 ext. housing. I just love the combo because the turbo and eng. still appear to be standard.

The Mafia: I wouldn't know :D, best ask someone in the trade.

There are a few "hidden" mods to acheive that figure, so it is not a case of just bolting up a vg30 ext. housing.  I just love the combo because the turbo and eng. still appear to be standard.

Yep you wouldnt want others to thing by strapping the same turbo on they are gonna get the same power figures.

Very surprising tho that such a small turbo is making so much power with only 15psi.

How much did you spend on head work? :(

All up about $3k on head work. That included; r33 s1 Tomei Poncams (256-duration, 8.15-lift), race porting, valve springs, full reco and clearances, cam gears, etc.

Ash: This graph was not the final tune as we acheived the goal and lowered the boost to keep the bottom end safe, at 255rwkw. He actually had to back the timing off in this rev range as with his headphones (Forget the name, but the tool used to listen for detonation) he started to hear some slight pinging. He couldn't explain why it happens, but claimed that he has also noticed it on other rb25's. The only common factor is the inlet plenium, as he has tunned other rb25's with aftermarket pleniums and has not had this problem. Not sure if more tunning/dyno runs would have been able to eliminate the fault, but as stated previously we didn't want to push the std bottom end to much.

i'd be skepitcal if a plenum would have anything to do with that :P

Mine doesnt have a problem, Denham's doesnt either.

Jeff in WA using a wolf also has 297 out of his so far :)

you could back it all out a tad more and then give it more of a mid range and then it.

Can not understand this part.......... :mellow:

you could back it all out a tad more and then give it more of a mid range and then it.

I have to agree with you, but as stated, we didn't bother cleaning it up as my goal was to keep it at 250-260rwkw. Vic cleaned it up a little more after this figure was recorded, once he lowered the boost to only acheive about 255rwkw. But i didn't bother getting a print out of this graph :( .

We haven't as yet played with the adj. cam gears (in and ext), this will be done when i desire more power and that wont be till i do the bottom end.

All up about $3k on head work.  That included; r33 s1 Tomei Poncams (256-duration, 8.15-lift), race porting, valve springs, full reco and clearances, cam gears, etc.

Ash: This graph was not the final tune as we acheived the goal and lowered the boost to keep the bottom end safe, at 255rwkw.  He actually had to back the timing off in this rev range as with his headphones (Forget the name, but the tool used to listen for detonation) he started to hear some slight pinging.  He couldn't explain why it happens, but claimed that he has also noticed it on other rb25's.  The only common factor is the inlet plenium, as he has tunned other rb25's with aftermarket pleniums and has not had this problem.  Not sure if more tunning/dyno runs would have been able to eliminate the fault, but as stated previously we didn't want to push the std bottom end to much.

Looks like a good 3k spent there. Where does she start to make good power from?

Ash u never got any head work on ur with your rebuild did ya?

Looks like a good 3k spent there. Where does she start to make good power from?

Ash u never got any head work on ur with your rebuild did ya?

All depends on the gear your in.

I am not sure, as things get pretty exciting once power comes on (as you would know, with your car), but in second gear i would say about 3-4k rpm

I can not speak highly enough of cams and head porting, i strongly beleive that such good results are not possible with the std head and this turbo.

Denham just think how much potential is still untapped, from your turbo, because of the std rb25 head. If you ever consider a rebuild seriously think about head work.

I can not speak highly enough of cams and head porting, i strongly beleive that such good results are not possible with the std head and this turbo.

Denham just think how much potential is still untapped, from your turbo, because of the std rb25 head.  If you ever consider a rebuild seriously think about head work.

yer i being hopful of numbers close to that but i strongly agree with you about the head work if i pop it any time it will probably get the full treatment but at the moment i'm just spending a few grand on the bolt on stuff to give it that bit more.

Looks like a good 3k spent there. Where does she start to make good power from?

Ash u never got any head work on ur with your rebuild did ya?

Good power around 5000rpm, did you even look @ the graph denham :mellow:

Nope, 100% factory Nissan RB25 head :(

The head in its stock form is pretty good upto around 300rwkw from what ive seen by a good number of cars now.

I could have gotten some done, but its a cost that wasnt justified when i could just mash another 1-2psi down there :D

AL, what i mean was, if its pinging or whatever where timing is being pulled, which i dont think it should really be doing...

backing off a bit earlier on would result in a wider band rather than getting to a point where the graph stops heading up @ the great rate... on to slow and then only to get back on the climb again later on.

I can not speak highly enough of cams and head porting, i strongly beleive that such good results are not possible with the std head and this turbo.

Denham just think how much potential is still untapped, from your turbo, because of the std rb25 head.  If you ever consider a rebuild seriously think about head work.

Yep i know there is still alot be be gained with my system.

When the engine does finially get rebuilt it will get the works, which is gonna cost alot of $$ that i am not prepared to spend on it at the moment.

Missed out on the 19 mil on the weekend also!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...