Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've done a search trying to get info on putting a r33 gtr engine into an r32 gtr. Found this on the difference between them performance wise

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=92904&hl=

in it found this info - r33 has pull clutch unlike th r32 which is push.

my mate is putting a r33 gtr engine in his r32 and is under the impression that it will bolt straight up to everything. Keeping in mind using r33 ecu, loom and turbos. (using r32 gearbox, clutch + so on)

im not so sure.

can people please list some threads or problems that he might run into. thankyou

if clutches are different then this will cause a big problem? yes/no

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93185-r33-rb26-in-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

yeah the engine will bolt directly up. the r32 gtr ecu should also run it.

r33 ecu and loom is WAYYYYY differant to the r32 gtr one. e.g the r33 have the battery in the boot!

just bolt in the r33 rb26 and use the r32 gtr ecu and loom.

cool, that'll save him some cash. umm, what bout clutches, pull/push. doesn't matter or is that incorrect?????????

it will all go in.

hel need to use the 32 clutch and flywheel.

also the 32  02 sensors. diferant. it will have drivability problems.

Drivability problems???

Why is that???

Aren't these engines very similar???

this is happening and if we are going to run into major problems then he'll be probably be better off getting a 32gtr engine.

i'm guessing someone must have done this before, can you please put in your two cents.

i'm sorry if this has been discussed at length before but i can't find anything. thankyou

32 02 senors are a "titanium" type. they work completly diferantly.much like a proper a/f sensor but not as advanced.

they vary a voltage going through them acording to the a/f ratio. rather than put out a ocilating voltage. i think.

33 ones are the normal type whatever that is.

besides i used a 33 computer on mine 89gtr(a/c testing etc) and full throttle is fine but light throttle was so bad i thought i had a dud afm!!

basicly any throtthe opening where closed loop control is used {everthing except full throttle}

it will buck and carry on and give him the shits.

wont notice it till they are up to temp.

i first ran in to this when i thought id use a 33 computer to get the better programing.(more torque)

hope that clears t up.

hey guys, i'm the mate who is getting the engine put in. Just signed up to the forum today. thanks for all the information, youv'e convinced me it's worth being a member. Hope to catch up with ya all if/when the car is back on the road. thanks again, will keep ya's posted with the progress.

here's some pics of my baby, not much to look at yet but give me time :P:):O

post-24483-1130987557.jpg

post-24483-1130987598.jpg

post-24483-1130987630.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...