Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok was going to run my cold air intake through one of the stock intercooler holes when I got my front mount cooler but the pipes for the one that I got still go down through the standard intercooler holes. So....

What is the best way to get a good cold air feed? Can another hole be cut near where the intercooler piping goes? Is there another way to get the air in there? What has everyone else done on their cars?

Thanks

Zer0

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/935-cold-air-intake-on-r33/
Share on other sites

I cut mine on the inner guard. The vertical bit right in front of the air filter. It leads into the inner guard and only gets fresh air.

The only problem with this is that the air isn't forced into it, it has to suck through it (if that makes sense??)

J

that's what I did to mine ,you get quite good airflow through there. You could close off btween the inner and outer guard around the wheel side of the cutout that might pressurise it a bit.

I still have the stock inlet in place except I swapped it for a GTR one. Eventually it will be sealed into the top of the cold box

Has any one thought about a different air box from a different car and then plumb a cold air intake in to that?

Apparently the Skyline Airbox is pretty bad for airflow which is partly to blame for its style of intake which is a bell mouth.

Apparently according to autospeed the VS V8 cold air intake without the snout is the best flowing airbox up to the date of the test around.

I am going to look in to it as I don't want a pod filter showing.

Another way that I thought of is to use the std air box as a dummy remove the filter inside and adapt a type of mandrel pipe or silicon hose and then mount the pod filter high up in the inner guard.?!?!?

It would still look like a std air box just with piping on the inside which runs to the inner guard where a pod filter sits.

Might get a bit wet but... maybe make up a few little baffels or somthing..

i got the best way ..... Remove the left headlight !! ...

but seriously there is lots of placs you can feed air from.

What im goin to do (when i get off my ass) is cut a hole beside the ic piping hole somewhere and make up a tube that will take air from the bottom left of front bumper ( end will be flared) and go through the hold and finish with another flared end near the ram pod ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...