Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty much what everyone else says.

Your ECU retains several parameters, and the algorithm uses them as variables when determining its actions.

So if the engine's knock sensors pick up stuff, it'll pull the engine back further and further to avoid breaking something. That's how the ECU adjusts to varying quality fuels.

It also has sensors to pick up various temps (inlet, EGT, etc) to adjust its settings to pro-actively avoid engine-damaging states of tune. So the hotter the weather, it knows to run less advance immediately, rather than waiting until your engine knocks to pull it back.

It might also determine from your driving style (i.e. steady state cruising on the highway) that you're not using power, and lean the motor right out to conserve fuel. Or run a more aggressive map if you're thrashing it.

Resetting the ECU clears all those parameters, so the ECU starts from a clean slate. So if you've been running bodgy fuel or babying the car and you've just topped up with some nice 98RON to hit the track, it'll be faster to switch to an aggressive mode than thrashing it and having the ECU notice.

If some of those parameters refuse to update, you might have to clear them forcibly by resetting.

It won't damage the car as long as you take the appropriate precautions.

Obviously if you're running a filthy batch of 91RON unleaded in 30 degree ambient heat, your ECU is going to have picked that up and pulled back the performance to protect the engine.

You get rid of its knowledge that its dealing with less than ideal fuel and air, and then just hop straight in and thrash it.....the ECU will eventually re-learn and pull back the performance again. But, until that happens...........

But if you've loaded up a tank of known-good fuel and its nice cold weather, if the car's feeling a little sluggish its definitely worth giving an ECU reset a try.

It shouldn't affect your EBC settings. Unless your ECU and EBC have weird interconnects (perhaps you're running an E-Manage with your Profec? I don't know...I'm not that familiar with GReddy's products) the two units are standalone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
×
×
  • Create New...