Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so my engine likes to give me all sorts of trouble, guess she doesnt like being in a s14 chassis.......

anyways im currently trying to rid the car of the current grimlin, crappy idle and transitional boosting problems.

at idle the car seems to have a light miss, but not like an outright dead coil pack

occasionaly the car will not idle worth a damn and others like a champ, it seems that weather has no effect on this and it will do it at any time.

also something that has developed is when im at cruise and i suddenly go wot where boost comes in hard (4kish) the car will 'buck' and stutter for a moment then go on its way and haul ass like normal.

im not sure what it could be and i dont want to spend 400$ on splitfire coils if i dont have to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93844-strange-idle-and-boosting/
Share on other sites

try these ive had this trouble...

try resetting the ecu's.....

check and make sure of a good earth connection to the block....

if this doesnt work get a spanner or something and give each coil a little tap on idle and listen for missfire..... if you find one then replace it....

id recomend doing it in that order aswell..... could save you money if it is only something small.

Stuttering could sound like it is going into rich&retard mode, this can usually be if you are running too much boost and it'll hold or hesitate for a second before picking back up..

- are you running stock boost..

- what other mods have you got..

- which engine exactly is it?

have you had a chance to plug in a consult cable and check that all your sensors are doing ok + maybe raise the idle RPM to see if it makes a difference, don't believe this is permanent - however it would give you an idea..

also try using calumsult which lets you record the data, go for a spin than check back through the ignition timing so on and so forth, it might help isolate the issue at 4,000 rpm..

engine is out of a r32 and its a rb20det

currently the car has the following:

garrett true gt30r with .63ar turbine

720cc injectors

z32 maf in blow thru

tomei 260/8.8mm cams on intake and exhaust

remapped ecu to suit injectors and maf

the car JUST started to do this as before it would hold a rock steady 600rpm idle any given time of the day, so im not sure whats going on.

Hey Carl h,

Im not sure where you are, but if you were wanting to record some engine data and graph it , to see whats happenning ,I have the cables, DataScan 1-4 and the Datalog graphing software on my laptop if you want to borrow it. Can also reset ECU and do power balance(drop each cylinder)Im Wollongong way, NSW.

Cheers, Caz..

have you had a chance to plug in a consult cable and check that all your sensors are doing ok + maybe raise the idle RPM to see if it makes a difference, don't believe this is permanent - however it would give you an idea..

also try using calumsult which lets you record the data, go for a spin than check back through the ignition timing so on and so forth, it might help isolate the issue at 4,000 rpm..

Edited by caz

the afm is the problem here.

its not like a bosch afm[vl commo etc] it boesnt have a burn off function like the vl one.

its a thick film type. [bosch LH type]

once any crap gets on them it stays there and buggers up the signal causing your exact problem.

to be sure remove it and clean it gently with brake clean or contact cleaner. but not carby cleaner[leaves a oily residue]

hope that helps.

ok so my engine likes to give me all sorts of trouble, guess she doesnt like being in a s14 chassis.......

anyways im currently trying to rid the car of the current grimlin, crappy idle and transitional boosting problems.

at idle the car seems to have a light miss, but not like an outright dead coil pack

occasionaly the car will not idle worth a damn and others like a champ, it seems that weather has no effect on this and it will do it at any time.

also something that has developed is when im at cruise and i suddenly go wot where boost comes in hard (4kish) the car will 'buck' and stutter for a moment then go on its way and haul ass like normal.

im not sure what it could be and i dont want to spend 400$ on splitfire coils if i dont have to.

do yo uhave a WB02 with the car? My guess is an initial over richness when you first romp on the pedal. Fuel is getting dumped while there isnt much load yet, or you may just have a flat spot in your map. Try looking at it with a WB02.

My motor has the same miss you're talking about at idle occassionaly. Typically its when the motor is wawrmed up. It's like a stutter/miss, and sometimes it even chokes the motor out. I also think this may be do to fuel building up over time in the cylinders at idle, and being too rich. Its either that, or the coil packs on their way out. My MAFs seem to be reading fine via pfc. I'll update on it once my WB comes in and i check that out.

do yo uhave a WB02 with the car?  My guess is an initial over richness when you first romp on the pedal.  Fuel is getting dumped while there isnt much load yet, or you may just have a flat spot in your map.  Try looking at it with a WB02.

My motor has the same miss you're talking about at idle occassionaly.  Typically its when the motor is wawrmed up.  It's like a stutter/miss, and sometimes it even chokes the motor out.  I also think this may be do to fuel building up over time in the cylinders at idle, and being too rich.  Its either that, or the coil packs on their way out.  My MAFs seem to be reading fine via pfc.  I'll update on it once my WB comes in and i check that out.

i do have a wideband o2 in the car, at idle it reads 12.5-12.8:1 when its a nice smooth idle but when it gets erratic it usaly reads bout 13.5-14:1.

while i do occasionaly get some oil on the maf (blowthru) i cleaned it a week ago or so with no change in idle characteristics.

im starting to think its my dodgy chip tuning skills combined with 13 year coils that are on their way out..........

what im guessing is happining is that when i go from cruise to wot afr's hit 10's or so and the car cant fire on 10:1, however when i roll onto boost afrs are usualy in the 11.5:1 range so its ok and not terrible.

gonna try something with the chip tune and see what happens, cut might just be due to obcene fuel, however ive got enough money now to buy a pfc and some splitfires so we will see what happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...