Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm not much of an electrician but I usually install my own sound systems and have done a few in my time.... however I'm having alittle bit of a problem.

I was installing a Sony CDX S2210X system. Everything was fine once i hooked it up and tested it.... then all of a sudden it cut out and the only thing it will do is allow me to put in or take out the cd when the ignition is turned on. I sorta lost my patience at this point and so I havn't removed all panels to get to the stereo again to check if it is a fuse thats blown... yet.... ( I will this weekend)...

Have I.....

A. blown the fuse for the continues power?

B. blown the fuse on in the unit?

C. stuffed the entire unit?

It's wierd as some power must be going into the unit as I can put a cd in, but the unit won't light up or do anything else.... I was thinking i might have just blown the fuse for continues power and since it needs both that and ignition power it's just not getting enough power supply to power the entire unit.

Please tell me if I'm on the right track....

by the way it's going into a 280ZX so literally half the dash needs to be removed to get to the stereo again, thats why I hope someone can diagnose the problem before I dismantle the car yet again....

Cheers

yer sounds like just the accesory fuse...

as long as u cant smell a burnt electrical smell your head unit should be ok... do you have any other accessories ie cigarette lighter... if thats stopped working then its prolly just a fuse in the fuse panel on the drivers side... fingers crossed for that as you wont have to rip out your dash

hope its the best case scenario

good luck

checked it last night and it's definalty not the fuse in the fuse panel and there was definalty no burning smell or anything, so it must be the fuse thats behind the dash... damn.....

thanks for the help guys....

how have you connectected your wires??? i've done quite a lot of audio stuff and most of the problems i've incountered with problem's with previous systems in the car or when i first started was that a lot of the wires wernt connected together properly, and could have come unplus, some lug's dont seem to connect as well as other's soildering is alwayz the best solution but very permanent. also before you rip out the panels mabye look at what fueses do what in the dash n c if any could possibily cause it to not be working, although if, your constant 12+ is working which is y you would be able to incert a cd, then most likey as said earlier its to do with the accessory wire, and on most head unit's this wire isn't fuesed with an inline fused as there are stacks of accessory fusses in your dash,my guess as i said earlier would be wiring n unfortunatly would mean taking it all out, and if its that hard to take everything out and it does end up being a connection make sure all the other connections will hold cause it would be a pain to have to do it all agian and agian and agian as i had to do with my first car/install i think i wired up my system 7 different times till i got it perfect although i was constintly adding stuff and experimenting with positioning and speekers n stuff

skyline was easy stereo install :D n it sounds f*ken madd as

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...