Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

doesnt your license state that your an AUTO driver, hence doesnt matter what you do your 50hours or whatever in you would still be classed as auto...

uhh... i don't quite understand..... with your P1 license on the back in tiny print it says if you're an auto driver

"prov driver auto veh only"

manual allows you to drive both..I'm just wondering if i need to redo 50 hours on manual... so far i;ve heard you haven't but my source isn't too reliable.

uhh... i don't quite understand..... with your P1 license on the back in tiny print it says if you're an auto driver 

"prov driver auto veh only"

manual allows you to drive both..I'm just wondering if i need to redo 50 hours on manual... so far i;ve heard you haven't but my source isn't too reliable.

spewin.. i also know that after a year on your P's down here (auto) you can drive a manual without even having a manual license.. (drive it alone)

uhh... i don't quite understand..... with your P1 license on the back in tiny print it says if you're an auto driver 

"prov driver auto veh only"

manual allows you to drive both..I'm just wondering if i need to redo 50 hours on manual... so far i;ve heard you haven't but my source isn't too reliable.

in the hours you booked down i dont think u had 2 say whether u drove a manual or auto u just had to drive... the main thing the rta is testing u on is your road knowledge and youve done that, obviously if you are kangarooing the car down the road your not gonna get ur licence but they watch your roadskills more than anything...

maybe you can do the test again in a manual... and thats it the print a new licence for 16 bucks

or u could just drive a manual... the number of times i was pulled over they never checked 2 c if my car was auto or manual once nor did they flip my licence over to see the rules... if your that worried get a auto gearnob and work out how to get it on the manual stick ha ha :D a little uncumfortable shifting but yer

Edited by Ricky_B
if your that worried get a auto gearnob and work out how to get it on the manual stick ha ha :D a little uncumfortable shifting but yer

haha.. nah not worried.. just my dad is somewhat of a law man.. (barrister).. and that would make him frown a bit :)

I think you should get r32 or r33 which ever you like and buy a second rb motor.

While you are waiting on finishing your p's build a kick ass motor ready to drop straight in in when you are off.....  :D

Just make sure you also save some money to upgrade from the nat-atmo spec suspension, brakes, diffs etc. At the very least put the brakes and LSD from the turbo model on it.

Yeah it think you'll be best off trading an NA skyline in for a turboed one rather than upgrading the one you get.

I know a guy who bought an NA supra and put the twin turbo motor in. I think he now regrets it as he is missing lots of stuff from the turbo version such as the suspension, interior, dash, brakes, diff, resale value and a few other things.

If you don't want an old car the Magna Sports is a definate one to look at. Just because it's a Magna doesn't mean you should look past it. They're a solid car and you'd be surprised as to how quick they are. It's front wheel drive but if you've got any intention of getting through your P's you're not going to be doing too much silly stuff (ie: Drifting) on the roads anyway, right?

I recently purchased a late 2001 Verada. I've changed to this car from a modified turbo RX-7, and am also a P plater and the change to a Verada wasn't as dismal as expected. I enjoy driving around in somethign quiet and comfortable with no cop attention. Plus, it allows me to save money as it's a low maintenance car, so once I'm off my P's I can go buy myself another nice sports car.

The cop attention alone you get from an Import whilst on P's isn't worth the hassle in my opinion. There's plenty of time for mad sports cars in a few years when you're off your P's.

Something to think about. I've been there and done that and I learnt my lesson the hard way - the amount of money I've wasted on cars since I was 16 (now 19) makes me shudder, I could've put a deposit on a house already. If you want to have nice cars & a house in the future don't waste your money on an import just yet (unless you're rolling in dough for some odd reason.....)

My worthless 2c

Dont know whether anyone has said this yet...But you could buy a Swift GTi and mod it with a nice bodykit and some rims etc. Good cheap pretty quick cars......

Then again, you could always buy a Stagea :D

Found two s13's... juggling them both atm.. advice is greatly appreciated.. aswell as any first ahdn experience with s13's, parts etc everything and anything :lol:

8804503ps.th.jpg

Vehicle 1992 NISSAN SILVIA

Price $9,000

Kilometres 160,000

Body 2 door Coupe

Colour white

Interior Colour

Transmission 5 speed Manual

Engine 4 cylinder Petrol Injected 2.0L (1998cc)

4 Wheel Disc Brakes

Air Conditioning

Alarm

Alloy Wheels

Body Coloured Bumpers

Cd Player

Central Locking

Drivers Airbag

Electric Mirrors

Electric Sunroof

Fuel Injection

Independent Rear Suspension

Log Books

Power Steering

Power Windows

Rear Spoiler

Remote Central Locking

Sunroof

Tinted Windows

9057439nt.th.jpg

Vehicle 1992 NISSAN SILVIA

Price $10,500

Kilometres 120,000

Body 2 door Coupe

Colour Black

Interior Colour Black with a touch of grey leather

Transmission 5 speed Manual

Engine 4 cylinder Petrol Injected 2.0L (1998cc)

Black SR20 S13. 18" Rims, Fully alarmed keyless entry with window lift

Long Comments Fully alarmed with keyless entry and window lift. Lowered with 18" Chrome wheels and exhaust. Fitted with mild stereo upgrade. Car is due for rego renewal at end of November 2005

4 Wheel Disc Brakes

Alarm

Auto Climate Control

Body Coloured Bumpers

Body Kit

Cd Player

Electric Mirrors

Independent Rear Suspension

Leather Trim

Power Steering

Power Windows

Rear Spoiler

Remote Central Locking

I don't think it is a sileighty. I thought it was just by looking at the thumb pic but when you expand it, it looks like a silvia.

But yeah, it is nice.

Hey, you are right! That ain't no Sil80! I should really expand images before I comment on them.

318i's are gutless unless you get a really old one, when the cars were light. Anything from the early 90's onwards has too much weight for the motor.

The BMW will probably handle OK (depending on your definition of OK), but it'll also be tired and your repair / maintenance costs are high.

A Silvia wouldn't be too bad. I'd rather take an SR20DE Silvia to an RB20DE R32 GTS. Just a smaller, more nimble car. Interior's a bit low rent, but not a horrible place to spend some time.

If it doesn't have to be RWD, I'd say get a Pulsar with an SR. The last of the SSS' are going for around $15K, and you can probably get an N14 SSS or Q for $10K or so. They're Aus delivered so parts, servicing etc isn't an issue. And they're a reasonably handling car that don't really attract the attention from the cops, especially if you shave the SSS badging so it looks like a granny car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...