Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well.. ive got an OS giken twin plate (TS2CD) and im pulling it out as its rooted. When it was working i thought it was a great clutch, fair bit of play in the pedal (feels almost stock but heavy). Bites very hard when u let it go. But now its slipping and starting to stick gears. So in goes a 5 puck brass button daiken plate (single). Should be good.

Oh and if anyone wants my TS2CD (www.otomoto.com.au) then PM offers.

peace

Edited by Mumbo#5

I have the Nismo Gmax 2 Twin plate in mine. I also upgrade the Clutch line (Nismo Braided) and the Clutch slave cylinder (Nismo Enlarged slave cylinder). Clutch is lighter than the stock one now, easy to use, suprising almost silent (no rattle) and really bites when you need it to. Couldn't be happier.

jlnewton: So the nismo twin has no rattle? The HKS twin makes a bit of noise and I regulary have to think twice as to whether somethings lose, even though I know it isn't.

What clutch did you end up going with anyway SkylineSII?

I just installed my HKS 5 plate titanium clutch with a 6200lbs pressure plate and I am having trouble pushing the pedal in....can anyone help?

You are going to snap stuff :(

jlnewton: So the nismo twin has no rattle? The HKS twin makes a bit of noise and I regulary have to think twice as to whether somethings lose, even though I know it isn't.

What clutch did you end up going with anyway SkylineSII?

Yeah, its really quiet. Can't even tell its a twin. I hear the new Nismo coppermix Twin is the same and even more drivable.

I just installed my HKS 5 plate titanium clutch with a 6200lbs pressure plate and I am having trouble pushing the pedal in....can anyone help?

Perhaps a gym to work up leg muscles :lol:

Chris went with a Exedy Single plate 5 puk button clutch.

I've got a OS Giken Twin Plate & it hasn't given me any problems. I know it's a Grabby MF, but I have learned to drive it properly & once you know where & when it grabs you shouldn't have a issue. I saw a post on here about someones OS Giken being rated at 480bhp?,

My one, I think is about 600HP or more, are you sure this is right. Because if mine is rated at 480hp, I might be looking to change sooner than I thought (it's only 7000km old) becasue my car is now at 500hp (300RWKW) at the flywheel (OS Giken Flywheel)).

When my car is finished in about 6 weeks,- it will put out 400rwkw, with a small shot of NOS, so I will be careful.

If any of you guys know what a good strong replacement is, I don't really care about it being grabby please let me know, because I am a bit worried now, but not too worried, so i will check my specs sheet again.

Cheers

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...