Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The Mixture is really dependent on how much you want to muck around with the engine tune. Toluene is less volitile and so tends to have cold start issues at low temps (after today it looks like theres no chance of that for a while).

For a straight replacement of bp 98 to drop the 'ping' factor, run around with about 10- 15% with a 95/96 octane fuel.

I run upto 30-35% for short periods. It cleans out your fuel system while its at it too. This requires a tune to suit.

There are probably others with experience around who might like to share their prefferences too.

The price for a tin is actually $32 now. Diggers brand. For a 20L drum it's $97. If people like to they can shop around for a hardware store willing to get it in regularly at a better price in my opinion the hardware store is charging abit much since they changed from being a Makit brand store.Even at $32 I preffer this over the 500ml octane bottle no brand comes even remotely close.

appart from more power. Toluene will increase the exhaust temps a tad but, it's lower volitility means much increased tollerence to pre-ignition. You run it a little on the rich side of 11:1 to be safe if your a backyarder playing with timing.

Oh and the catylitic converters don't like this additive for very long periods without appropriate tuning.

here is an old extract I have about it;

Toluene is a pure hydrocarbon (C7H8). i.e. it contains only hydrogen and carbon atoms. It belongs to a particular category of hydrocarbons called aromatic hydrocarbons. Complete combustion of toluene yields CO2 and H2O. This fact ensures that the entire emission control system such as the catalyst and oxygen sensor of your car is unaffected. There are no metallic compounds (lead, magnesium etc), no nitro compounds and no oxygen atoms in toluene. It is made up of exactly the same ingredients as ordinary gasoline. In fact it is one of the main ingredients of gasoline.

Toluene has a RON octane rating of 121 and a MON rating of 107, leading to a (R+M)/2 rating of 114. (R+M)/2 is how ordinary fuels are rated. Note that toluene has a sensitivity rating of 121-107=14. This compares favorably with alcohols which have sensitivities in the 20-30 range. The more sensitive a fuel is the more its performance degrades under load. Toluene's low sensitivity means that it is an excellent fuel for a heavily loaded engine.

Toluene is denser than ordinary gasoline (0.87 g/mL vs. 0.72-0.74) and contains more energy per unit volume. Thus combustion of toluene leads to more energy being liberated and thus more power generated. This is in contrast to oxygenated octane boosters like ethanol or MTBE which contain less energy per unit volume compared to gasoline. The higher heating value of toluene also means that the exhaust gases contain more kinetic energy, which in turn means that there is more energy to drive turbocharger vanes. In practical terms this is experienced as a faster onset of turbo boost.

have fun...

oh and it's deadly poison and you'll all die die die !!! HA HA HA!

Is there any octane boosters that you guys recommend. Also.. how much do I add to a full tank of petrol, do i go the premimum + octane booster or just get the shitter commoner fuel + octane booster. Just wondering how much I add to bring it up to, or better than ultimate 98

http://www.nitrous.com.au/products.html

Comes highly reccomended by a few garages. How good it really is, i don't know. I put 1/2 a bottle of yellow into my tank for the purpose of injector cleaning, but i don't feel any difference. LoL. Cause for all u know, it just the garage pushing their product (they stock it), and when they stock it, high chance they wanna earn ur $$. But hey, it's made in WA! Supports WA! LOL!!!

bp along orrong rd (pretty sure the is only one heading towards farmer freeway) has ultimate, and so does bp in bullcreek along perry ave..and u can save 4c a litre there too wif dewsons or supa valu dockets :(

jus shop around and luck :( sum places run out of premium not 98..and apparently shell's premium is 87..not 95 or 96. so it beats votex which is ova rated :D

Toluene rotting fuel lines:

............actually yes it does and your whole car will start rotting shortly afterwards and then the neigbours dog too but, no one liked it barking at night anyway so we are all happy again. Although without fuel lines and a car.

It also will cause you girlfriend to leave you and it will lose you your job.

..and apparently shell's premium is 87..not 95 or 96. so it beats votex which is ova rated :)

Nah your wrong dude, don't know where you got that info. I'm telling you all now.. normal unleaded petrol is 91-92 RON, most premiums are 95-96 (VORTEX is 96) and BP Ultimate is 98.

Octane booster is pretty much useless guys. Yeah it helps a bit and most of them also clean out injectors and prevent knocking etc. But wont give you much of a performance gain.

Say you fill up with VORTEX (96RON), and you add in some octance boost which gives you "7-8 points", this will make your petrol 96.7 - 96.8 RON.

BP Ultimate still leads with 98RON.

10 points of octane boost = 1 RON.

Hope this helps :P

Edited by Br4nchi3

even IF it were true that fuel lines rot from tolulene

compare the cost effectiveness of replacing fuel lines, o-rings and fuel pump, with

rebuild of engine

hmm, tough choice. Seriously guys, dont listen to old wives tales, I have used tolulene, Rev210 has used tolulene, I know many people that regularly use tolulene (with other additives like avgas :) ) and NOT ONE of them, nor me has had any problems with rotting fuel lines

Next time someone tells you it rots fuel lines, ask them if its from personal experience, if they say no - its just a rumour, if they say yes, ask them how long they were using it until the fuel lines rotted, what percentages, and how old the fuel lines were to start with. I am sure they will get very vague about their answers at this point.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...