Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi, Guys. Just a note of caution to all of you budding bucket chemists. You need to take care how you throw this stuff around, if any of you are thinking of mixing it outside the tank. The best way, I would think, would be to part fill your tank, add the carefully calculated amount of Toluene/other additive and then finish filling your tank with normal gasoline from the bowser.

Avoid chucking this stuff into buckets/drums or whatever. Keep it in a suitable container and pour it straight into the car.

If you must pre-mix, then do it outside (not even under a car port), well away from electrical appliances, including lights. Minimise the opening into the drum (i.e don't just slosh it into an open top container) and stand up-wind. To minimise your exposure, wear gloves (those red plasticky, rubber ones that come up over your wrists), preferably some sort of mask to protect from fumes and DEFINITELY wear goggles to protect your eyes from splashes. Do everything you can to minimise ignition sources. Bear in mind that any vapours will be heavy and tend to slump over the ground - so close the door into any building nearby (like your kitchen!) to prevent fumes drifting in. Bear in mind that ignition could occur some distance away and flash back to the drum/container. (So don't think you can let your mate smoke 10 metres away.)

If half of Perth is going to be sloshing this stuff around, we are bound to hear of some idiot getting burned. :D

Don't play with the stuff if you do not know what you are doing. These are chemicals with a significant fire risk. Just drive slower for a few weeks on whatever petrol you can get!

Cheers. ;)

Hi everyone Dr dangerous here!

Yes toluene is almost as dangerous as normal petrol, although petrol is far more volitile, has more toxic fumes and contains carcinogens.

So if you must use it then do so with as much care as fueling up your lawn mower. If fact people should take more care with their lawn mowers for future refference.

Toluene for the record is not carcinogenic. If someone wants to argue with me then I will respond with 'my dad can beat up your dad..'

Toluene is ok with the O2 sensors if the mixture is right for the tune. Running higher mixtures will result in unburnt fuel, the toluene component helps to keep O2 sensors clean thanks to higher exhaust temps, it's also a good solvent to clean things with.

What about this rotting fuel line bizzo I have been hearing about?

How hard is it to add in a couple of degrees on the CAS? just loosen bits off then swivel a tiny bit, then tighten? (with exact measuring taking place of course)

What about this rotting fuel line bizzo I have been hearing about?

How hard is it to add in a couple of degrees on the CAS? just loosen bits off then swivel a tiny bit, then tighten? (with exact measuring taking place of course)

what ever you do use a timing light and its a good habit to scribe the positon of the cas before you start, as it will make it easy to reset it to the original time

I found resetting the ecu worked well, just let the car work it out for itself :) but that was when I just used to throw 4L ( 2 ice cram containers) in half a tank of fuel - it was all pretty technical stuff :)

Rev210 (aka DR Dangerous..lol would make a nice new nick) would you think it necessary to increase timing if you are doseing up your fuel to bring it back up to 98?

reseting ecu only changes the 'closed loop' map. It does not effect the ignition or fuel maps for power, otherwise you could mod things and not need a PFC or other programable ecu.

A manual advancing of the CAS will only 'shift' the timing map so to speak.

If the OEM ecu detects knock, it pulls timing, and I can 100% guarantee it does this at WOT, not just closed loop. Resetting the ecu, causes it to reset and relearn its timing maps

It does work, I have even seen the stock ecu relearn its power curve on a dyno after an ecu reset.

Of course resetting wont give you indefinate timing advance, nor will it directly add or remove fuel into maps, but it does allow the ecu to readjust to new fuel, or new driving style. So I dont see where you are coming from with the no need for aftermarket management theory.

Hi Steve,

I am pretty sure you will find the timing maps in a stock ecu are fixed. If you can show me a timing 3D graph Vs load before and after then I would agree with you. A power curve isn't idicative of the timing map.

Thats why the 'Lumpy ROM' for the R32's is really good as you can modify fully the timing Map in 3D.

Perhaps a tuner would like to and 2c?

the PFC can handle that. Go into 'settings' and then 'inj/ign' menu add advance on the fly as you need it and monitor the knock levels. The addtional advance you plug in on this menu needs to be redone everytime you restart the engine as it's temporary. So there is no danger of you forgetting once you are back with normal fuel and running to much advance. This tool is a fairly blunt instrument by my experience. I tend to change the map itself after writing down the original values.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...