Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've noticed that when my fuel tank is fairly full (over 3/4) and I go through corners quickly, petrol is spilling out of the flap and down the side of the car.

Occasionally I also get a fuel smell in the cabin, which is the strongest in the boot (makes sense). This is not correlated with the level of the tank though.

Anyone else have/had similar issues?

Cheers

Greg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94640-fuel-tank-spilling-over/
Share on other sites

Had major issues with my car.....ended up being the fuel pump and the top seal for the fuel pump housing in the top of the boot under then carpet.......i replaced all my hosing and the fuel filter. spent heaps for just a bloody seal. check your boot and fuel pump area and also check the seal where you fill ur tank and hose to the tank, you might have a crack

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks to a pm i receive from grigor (see below) i have fixed my fuel spilling problem. Only took a trip to supercheap auto to get some sikaflex and it is like new. Before when i tightened the fuel cap the restrictor moved a little, now it remains solidly in place, and is goes pshhh when i open it.

here is a copy of his msg:

If the fuel is actually leaking out from the filler area, it's probably not the seal on the bung for the fuel pump access.

It's more than likely a poor compliance when fitting the new filler neck. As part of the comply, they fit an adapter in the filler neck to suit the small diameter bowser fittings of unleaded fuel. It's sealed inside the factory neck with Sikaflex or similar but if it's not done properly, they smell and leak.

A quick check is does it go "whoosh" when you open the cap? If not it's leaking somewhere and thousands of Skylines have this filler neck problem.

It can be fixed by getting it sealed properly and is usually an overnight job to allow the Sikaflex to cure properly.

Edited by Greg
Had major issues with my car.....ended up being the fuel pump and the top seal for the fuel pump housing in the top of the boot under then carpet.......i replaced all my hosing and the fuel filter. spent heaps for just a bloody seal. check your boot and fuel pump area and also check the seal where you fill ur tank and hose to the tank, you might have a crack

thanks Nathan, the seal on the metal cover to the right of the battery was indeed perished. I used windscreen sealant (which never hardens) to replace this, the logic being that if i need to get to my fuel pump in the future it will be simple (but a little messy). at this stage i think it has fixed my fuel smell problem, but time will tell as it was always an intermittent thing.

thanks,

greg

EDIT 1/2/06 - no fuel smell whatsoever since resealing

Edited by Greg
  • 3 months later...

I have a fuel smell and counldn't find where it was coming from. Checked the fuel filter up the front and I also checked the fuel tank when I fitted a new fuel pump. All ok.

I got a smell from near the fuel refiller, but the wierd thing is that I got a smell when I wound down the drivers windows when driving. The only thing I could think of is when you wind down the window, it draws air out and then sucks it in else where. Must be sucking air in from the back near the fuel filler.

So anyway, I hunted around the fuel filler section, (after doing a search and found many threads on it) and couldn't find anything.

After a while I noticed the reddy-brownish muck around the top of the fuel filler neck, and noticed that it was brittle.

So then I grabbed the pliers and yanked out the metal neck bit and found this - check pics. Some dodgy bastard has glued it in with I've no idea what, and is almost cetainly the cause of my fuel smell.

Anyway,

From above, it would seem like silkaflex the best thing to go with. Is this stuff a silicon type glue, which will get me a good seal? Is it fuel proof? Will it last? Is it purpose designed? etc?

Thanks

Chriso

post-19015-1141852923.jpg

post-19015-1141853126.jpg

post-19015-1141853379.jpg

Hi Chriso,

Yeah it is a silicon type glue. Sikaflex in what compliancers use to glue the restricter in place. Mine has held up fine so far but it hasn't been very long. Sikaflex is a general autmotive glue and sealer. It's used to hold bodykits on. It also has marine uses,

It looks as if yours was held in place by gasket goo!

Cheers

Greg

I repaired mine with Sikaflex only for it to give way about 2 months later - waste of time.

sheet - I just bought some and sealed mine.

What about just a jap bung? I know it's a defect, but maybe it could be a temporary solution.

The cars already been complied anyway - don't need it complied again.

The guy I ought the Sikaflex from said that it's wha the compliancers useually use to do it...

Chriso

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...