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is there any way of telling if its a cam gear slipped a tooth appart from taking off covers? I would have thought this wuld make the car drive like crap as well.

May take it down the quarter soon to see what it gets. Then decide if i should get shift kit

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you can get the shift kit with filter kit from MV for like 400$ then ill just fit it not a bad price.

Went down to allfast torque converters and they said about 1350 for a 3000rpm histall as well. But yeah don't know if ill ever go that far

I only threw in the cam gear comment as a general example of a possible cause. It isn't very likely.

How much power did the car make with the old turbo? And when was the stock turbo hitting full boost and what boost were you running?

  • 2 weeks later...

I just thought I'd come back to this one.. seeing as similar situation

Today I ended up getting only got 178rwhp in my R32 with RB25 highflowed turbo @ 16psi, turbotech boost valve, SAFC, fmic, nismo fpr, gtr fuel pump, and 3" full exhaust system.

The same turbo made 230rwkw (300rwhp) on an RB25 at 16psi... so it seems like a very similar situation to yours Anton. Decent turbo - but just doesn't seem to pull the figures on an auto RB20.. Maybe the turbo needs 20psi wring into it to really pull its efficiency range (wouldn't trust that on a stock rb20) ? and probably it requires proper management. But of course PowerFC won't of course run with auto...

Mind you it was about 30 degrees.. not shootout mode and that dyno reads quite low... but still, even if you add 10-20% for that, there is something about auto r32 that is funny here. You'd expect higher, and the engine has high compression and no other signs of ill-health. While the SAFC is not an ideal solution, you wouldn't think it would hold it back as much as it has.

Car feels pretty fast (and maybe is), so i'm not too disappointed... anyhow, thats enough rb20 for me. Will leave it as is for 3 months or so then rb25 + manual gearbox + powerfc is going in..

rb20 + auto :P bad combo..

and probably it requires proper management. But of course PowerFC won't of course run with auto...

It will make a difference however has the standard ECU been remapped? as this could help it out quite a bit, got a dyno graph with A/F ratios on it? is it losing out on the top end or all over the spectrum?

To add to this, we relooked at the tune on a cooler day and got about 250rwhp ( I think) out of it with a bit more adventurous timing and a little more boost. We tend to try and run a conservative package in timing if possible but Anton seemed a little disappointed with the previous result so we try to please.. :D

The auto basically gave up the ghost with the clutch packs/bands starting to smell after a few runs.

Anton seemed happy when he left and I hope the auto is still driving :)

Cheers

Ken

Anton, Drop a R32 5speed in it.. They are dirt cheap. :)

Look in to the patrol clutch, they are cheap and an upgrade over std, I'll assume they would be good enough for 200rwkw.

Manual... Better fuel economy, better life out of your brakes. Do it. :D

yeh, the gearbox are fairly cheap..but the rest are the fiddly bits and some are hard to get hold of these days.. minimum $1k + labour to get it done. anyhow, good luck with the quest anton for manual parts if you decide that route.

It will make a difference however has the standard ECU been remapped? as this could help it out quite a bit, got a dyno graph with A/F ratios on it? is it losing out on the top end or all over the spectrum?

mine feels very strong.. at least 40-50% more power than stock and when it comes on boost you know about it.. so I'm not sure of the dyno reading.. a/f ratios are nice and even around 11.5 near the top end, and at least I know I can give it a hammering in the heat. Power just flattens off at the top and that is where it stays... will post a dyno sheet later.

Going to give it a drag strip run, that will give me a better benchmark..

I think really to get any more power out of mine (or any other highflow rb25 turbo for that matter), the answer would simply be more boost, and lots of it... at least 16psi+

I always forget about the labour side of things as I do everything myself. :D

But if the auto is shagged he is up for the cost of removal/install anyway so it may be a good time to consider the swap.

RB20's do indeed need lots of boost to get the air in past those small valves.

Edited by Cubes

You just need the stage 2 shift kit from MV in Adelaide to fix the hitting rev limiter problem.

I've had my auto for almost 2 years and I don't baby it. The only problem was hitting the rev limiter from first to second and slow gear changes. It was more obvious once I've put on a 3" exhaust. Once I put the shift kit in the problems were gone.

Also, the power you're makin does seam a bit low.

Mine has full exhaust, cooler, pod and stock rb25 turbo running 14 psi and makes 168 rwkw on a conservative dyno.

ECU chip is next.

Edited by nedb

just a comparison on the r33 auto cars, im interested in what other people are getting with there cars and what they have done to it. I have a 3" exhaust with split pulse dump pipe, 10.5 psi with GBF bleed valve, SAFC2 tuned by Hyperdrive, standard auto, standard cooler (soon to be fmic) and im getting 215rwhp and 1/4 mile of 14.7 at best.

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