Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

driver.

youve been racing yours @ the strip for a while now remember

Private road and rolling runs, not much any driver can't do except change one gear (2nd to 3rd). No offence, but mine felt punchier too and as expected it should running closer to 20psi against 14psi.

Edited by Robo's
  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i dunno, my car with 270 hauled some serious a$$... there is no doubt about that.

Bass's comes on waaay earlier than mine did and it feels pretty damn fast to me as i was in it the other day.

For a daily driver thats the turbo i would want. Mine wasnt really a daily so it didnt matter.

The GCG hi-flow from being in the car has very linear power delivery.

As reflected by the power curve, where are mine was a little laggier but by christ it hauled once it was on and i got to 3rd hehehe

The GCG being smaller doesnt need that long to get going. Im happy to say that they are of excellent quality

Not getting into a workshop/dyno battle or whatever. Its not called for, certainly not in a good thread like this. I doubt RPM is differnt to most places. The inertia settings there are different to other places etc

Many things affect it all, like how long its been since calibration and what not etc etc. long long list.

i dunno, my car with 270 hauled some serious a$$... there is no doubt about that.

Bass's comes on waaay earlier than mine did and it feels pretty damn fast to me as i was in it the other day.

For a daily driver thats the turbo i would want. Mine wasnt really a daily so it didnt matter.

The GCG hi-flow from being in the car has very linear power delivery.

As reflected by the power curve, where are mine was a little laggier but by christ it hauled once it was on and i got to 3rd hehehe

The GCG being smaller doesnt need that long to get going. Im happy to say that they are of excellent quality

Not getting into a workshop/dyno battle or whatever. Its not called for, certainly not in a good thread like this. I doubt RPM is differnt to most places. The inertia settings there are different to other places etc

Many things affect it all, like how long its been since calibration and what not etc etc. long long list.

Im sure it is quick, so your saying boosting Bass's car up, is not going to achieve much. Coz 250rwkw at 14psi is certainly high and thats why i had to feel silvas 244rwkw coz i didnt really beleive it at that psi.

I know dynos get regularly serviced but my mate has one and i was spewing when he told me that my old readings where 20 rwkw high as the barometric pressure were reading incorrect. And he showed me how air intakes readings can increase readings as well. So now, i tend to look at the data on the bottom of dyno graphs.

250rwkw at 14psi when its not even in the turbos effeceint range sounds a little too high.

I'd say the turbo at 14psi would be smack in the middle of its efficiency..

Going by the fact that some others with this same turbo *r34/vg30 turbine housing* have made 270rwkw.

The R34/VG30 turbine is a .7 something, as a result less back pressure, less reversion and higher VE.

The GT28 & 30 are in the meat of their efficiency at around 1bar according to the compressor maps in the garrett catalogue. Its not directly comparable as the GCG unit does run a smaller comp cover.

Any one know what comp wheel the GCG highflow uses? GT28 or GT30?

It would be interestering to see the boost a Non-Neo RB25DET with stock cams would need to make the same power as Bass.

Edited by Cubes
Im sure it is quick, so your saying boosting Bass's car up, is not going to achieve much.  Coz 250rwkw at 14psi is certainly high and thats why i had to feel silvas 244rwkw coz i didnt really beleive it at that psi.

well he simply cant due to the pinging issues he has/comp related to the NEO.

As cubes said, if its right on the song then thats where it is.

Anyone got a comp map of the GCG to have a bit of a look-see?

Does one exist?

If not then its like all other hi-flows, basically a gamble that no-one knows what or how its going to perform on any given spec'd motor

If maybe he dropped it via a nice big gasket it would be interesting to see what it can do, if anything. Only one way to find out really isnt there?

Over to your H/G hunting Poiter :P even though i know you aint getting one lol.

There isn't a map available I'm told by GCG. Also I'm pretty sure it's the GT30 core but I can't remember how I know that.

As we all know there are heaps of variables in engines. Dropping the compression in Bass' car might only net him the same power at more boost.

For every 0.5 drop in compression ratio you need roughly 0.2 bar increase in boost to achieve the same power.

This is why I was never going to go down to 8.2 as someone recommended because I would have needed to push about 1.25 bar just to keep the same power I had at 0.85 bar previously.

I was told by ATS (who forward customer on to the GCG hiflow option, so theyve got nothing to gain by making up dodgy info) that the cores are GT30 and ground down to suit the specific application....... as best as my memory serves me.

Hope that helps.

Brendan

Mine gathers dust.

Mine gathers dust faster than yours.... but my dust-dyno has different settings so i dunno now! :P

I clicked on this thread expecting to read about your rebuild... 1 post for the rebuild, 4 pages for off-topic convo haha, still a good read :)

It is about my rebuild but it was also supposed to be a repository for NEO info which it has turned out to be.

Shonen - you're obsessed with highmount. I'm more likely to put nos on it than a highmount. That said, a 2835ProS would be nice but I can't afford anything atm.

I've already got the highflow so I'm sticking with that due to $$. I've got some cams going in though so that should make some difference.

I think the 4 doors have the viscous LSD and the 2 doors get the helical LSD which means I'll be up for a new diff at some stage.

I think the 4 doors have the viscous LSD and the 2 doors get the helical LSD which means I'll be up for a new diff at some stage.

Grab a r32 gtr mech clutch center and half shafts (5bolt). You can also fiddle with the ratios if you wish. 3.7, 3.9, 4.083, 4.11, 4.363 are available.

I've seen the gtr centers go from 450-650.

Im going a 3.9:1 out of the auto s13/s14/s15's, should work a little nicer with the 3ltr.

Or there's 1k for a decent 1/1.5/2 way that clunks a little around corners. :P

Edited by Cubes
mph does if the timing is up the creek  :P

i ran 12.1 @ 113 or something still sliding @ 1/2 track. go figure  heheh

Well thats showing you actually got some pretty good traction and not much top end, similiar to a GTR time

thing is i didnt lol. EVeryone found it quite amusing how little i had :unsure:

My car was all top end, had nothing remotely interesting until 4300rpm :)

It was slideways off the line, then skating for approx 1/2 track where it settled, 2.1 60ft...

Timing was so out that day, damn heathcote

Abobob, just wait till you kill the diff.

You never know. It could hold out for a while. If your nice to it there is no reason why it shouldnt really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...