Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont go much below 15k.

They have droped a bit in price r33s but not that much.

someone smart with the intentions of buying it for a solid reliable performace build up will grab it for that i think.

they do take a while to get rid of r33s to so keep that in mind. They are very common now. I see them all the time on the gold coast now. Couple of years ago there was hardly any

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

dont go much below 15k.

They have droped a bit in price r33s but not that much.

someone smart with the intentions of buying it for a solid reliable performace build up will grab it for that i think.

they do take a while to get rid of r33s to so keep that in mind. They are very common now. I see them all the time on the gold coast now. Couple of years ago there was hardly any

Yes I agree - when I lived on the coast it was a real dream to pass the skyline with the round lights - everyone wanted them.

I am willing to wait and be somewhat patience but am not keen to have to renew the registration in August so am hoping to get rid of it by then.

thanks for the feedback - hopefully I find a buyer with your thoughts!

  • 4 weeks later...

Happy to say the car just got sold and was coming in to remove this today :yes:

Was very happy with the money that we got - although roadworthy was a pain. I had to get new tyres because these were not roadworthy as they had worn through the centre. They were Yokohama's that I paid 200 each for only 20000km ago - needless to say I am in discussions with them currently for what they can do about paying for the 2nd hand ones I had to put on their as the way they were worn shows that they were faulty!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...