Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine's mounted in the bottom right hand side under the pillar. It's "engineered" there.

same with mine, but if u CBFed to get it engineered then just make sure it's below the top of the steering wheel...

i got defect was on the pillar but got it engineered but cops still have a whine..

people dat mount it on their ash tray etc, i think is really stupid, u take ur eyes of the road just to see wat PSI ur running i think it's more dangerous than having aboe the steering wheel, dats just my 2c worth

this is all in NSW hope it helps

im not being negative nancy but i dont see the need for it ?

+7 on the stock guage is 14psi or 1bar. so thats easy. have you any proof that the stock guage shows say +3.5 which is 6.7psi and your aftermarket guage says 9psi exactly? if so are they plumbed into the same spot with same length and width of tubing?

i just dont see the need to buy a boost guage just cos you have a turbocharged car. the stock one should be fine i would image for most stock applications? its a map sensor, i dont think they "wear" out or become forgetful. sure aftermarket turbo then you may need one but why on the stock one? and also most boost controllers (elec anyway) have digital boost display so shouldnt even need one really ?

paul, the stock guage isnt exactly accurate (on my car anyways)

also i like to have it there cause if anything does go wrong with the boost... e.g it spikes to 20psi for some reason or something i can see it :P

the stock guage would show the same thing, it would go to +7 which is 1 bar

and even if it ran 20psi the aftermarket guage aint gonna help you, the damage is probably already done

stock boost gauges suck u mean that +7 -7 gauge thing yuk............ not when raising boost a bit and watching the turbo

its just a different unit of measuer, what does it matter? +7 is 14psi simple really.

"not when raising boost a bit" do you mean with a boost controller? the stock guage will show the increase as well as you would expect of course.

To monitor boost more accurately.

Yep, it does. I can't for the life of me tell where 14psi is on it.

No. But on the dyno I do.

Don't look at it on the road.

the stock one i wouldnt expect to be "inaccurate" ?

14psi is +7, the top of the guage

most dyno's have their own map sensor plumbed into the pressure line to plot boost on the dyno sheet anyway ?

paulr33 i use to think that a boost gauge was a waste of time till i got my e boost 2

i do all of my boost settings and can c from the cabin wat boost i am running

since this i have turned my boost down to a safe level i have a much larger power band

with modding cars $$ vers damage you can do without 1 its a no brainer now but i could not be told i needed to find this out for myself so i appriciate it a bit more

mods i have

exhaust

fmic pbbov

pod

e boost 2

wat mods have you done

james

yes but what you have stated is the arguement of using a shit boost controller vs a good one. using either doesnt really warrant an aftermarket guage. im not arguing for the sake of it, i just really don't see the need unless you have a bigger turbo?

mods i have are powefc, evc3 elec boost controller, 3" exhaust, fmic, gtr fuel pump. i never look at touch any buttons on my boost controller, it's a set and forget scenario. but it does display boost in digital bar output

the stock one i wouldnt expect to be "inaccurate" ?

14psi is +7, the top of the guage

most dyno's have their own map sensor plumbed into the pressure line to plot boost on the dyno sheet anyway ?

true... What if you're running higher than 14psi? Say 16psi like I am.

I've been on a few dyno's that don't plot boost pressure.

Although, hmmm...I never really look at my boost gauge anyway. I always check my ebc. It has a peak hold function so it holds the highest boots reached in psi for a few seconds.

The only time I've used the gauge was to make sure the ebc was reading correctly when I was tuning the ebc to use an external gate on the dyno.

Yeh good ebc makes a difference but 1 with a gauge is better as you said

i change my boost only by 1/4 of a psi at a time and i can also change how hard it comes on

but if you have a stock turbo and you play with boost without gauge you cat can eat your exhaust wheel

james

my stock sensor is fooked - shows erratic boost readings all the time so definitely couldn't be trusted...

that's one reason why i've got aftermarket boost guage...

that and i like looking at my defi bf meter :P

cheers for all the responses guys, like someone else said on here, my gauge is very inaccuarate, i tapped up the boost the other day, and it still reads ~6.7psi on my factory gauge, so i bought a aftermarket for that reason, still have yet to recieve it though the aftermarket will definitely show me if my boost tap is working or not.

  • 6 years later...

7 year bump!

There was mention here of not needing a boost guage if you have a EBC that read peak boost ect. My car has no stock boost guage as it was NA.

I do have a Greedy profec b2 thats going in.

can i forgoet about spedning the money on guages?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...