Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This "machining" of the cylinder head to clear high lift cams is grossly overrated. I "machined" an RB26 cylinder head to clear 10.3 mm lift cams yesterday in less than 20 minutes with the die grinder. And I didn't take the cylinder head off to do it either. Just had the trusty vacuum cleaner in action and some gladwrap.

Think about the numbers involved. If 9.8 mm clears easily, then the max you have to remove is 0.5 mm. That is hardly MACHINING :P :lol: :) :lol: :P

:D Cheers :)

another thing to note is the bolt in tomei poncam has a base circle of 32mm and a lift of 9.15mm

But the tomei procam has a base circle of 30mm and the 10.25mm lift cam would only have a total 0.10mm higher total lumb hieght. Meaning i believe if you were willing to reshime the head the tomei 10.25mm should go in without machining.

pete

When you say "machine" or modify head to fit - do you have a picture of head and which parts need to be cleaned up.

Sorry for noob question - just trying to understand it all .

Daniel

i dont have a pic but if you look at where the bucket runs under the cam you will see the there is a cut away through the bucket tunnel to clear the lumb of the cam this cat away is what has to be relieved to clear the larger lumbs.

pete

This "machining" of the cylinder head to clear high lift cams is grossly overrated. I "machined" an RB26 cylinder head to clear 10.3 mm lift cams yesterday in less than 20 minutes with the die grinder.  And I didn't take the cylinder head off to do it either.  Just had the trusty vacuum cleaner in action and some gladwrap.

Think about the numbers involved.  If 9.8 mm clears easily, then the max you have to remove is 0.5 mm.  That is hardly MACHINING  :(  :lol:  :P  :lol:  :P

;) Cheers :)

... weren't you frightened of swarf melting its way through the gladwrap ? :) And did you take any pics

(I am currently investigating 'how hard' this is to either do myself or get someone else to do...)

Regards,

Saliya

... weren't you frightened of swarf melting its way through the gladwrap ? :P And did you take any pics

(I am currently investigating 'how hard' this is to either do myself or get someone else to do...)

Regards,

Saliya

Nope, the aluminium is relatively soft, doesn't get very hot and it was only 0.3 mm that I was removing. It's not like there is tonnes of half molten swarf flying all over the place. The glad wrap is really just there to concentrate the vacuum pick up from the cleaner.

That engine is running, tuned and gone today. I can take pictures of my own RB26 cylinder head if you like, it has been machined for Jun 272/280 with 10.5 mm lift. If you take a camcover off it is easy to see what has to be done to make room for an extra 0.5 mm larger lobe on the camshaft. There is no magic, the most common reaction when I show people this HUGE MACHINING job, is " is that all it is?" :(

:P cheers ;)

PS; I am sure one of the guys posted up some pictures a while ago, maybe try a search. If I remember rightly his job was very nice, but a big overkill using a mill and removing 1 or 2 mm, just to be sure.

Thanks Pete

What Cams have you put in Jemery's car.  I love the way that sounds and seems to haul very nicely.

Dan

jezzas is running tomei poncams, Yes it's a VERY nice ride with great responce and linear power delivery, which should stand him in good sted for track days etc. I have know fitted 5 sets of these Tomie Poncams all with out a problem and all with good results (ie my tip is to get adjustable cam wheels (tomei) with the cams) as tuning the cams is where you really unlock the potiental of the rb26 some more than others.

peter

are they the 260deg in/ex pete?

yes i dont think it worth bothering with stage 1 the stage 2 are the only ones i recomend

pete

ps the last 3 gtrs with these cams have averaged 500rwhp with small twin turbo combos :wacko:

The tomei ones I was looking at yesterday were 9.15/260deg...how does that rate compared to other lifts and degs?

these were $1400 for pair as well, is that an average figure?

I know nothing about cams and timings etc, but want to know before I get into modifying next year...

The tomei ones I was looking at yesterday were 9.15/260deg...how does that rate compared to other lifts and degs?

these were $1400 for  pair as well, is that an average figure?

I know nothing about cams and timings etc, but want to know before I get into modifying next year...

there the go but maybe try greenline.jp or nengun.com might save your self some money

there the go but maybe try greenline.jp or nengun.com might save your self some money

ok, that price was from Unique Autosport or something.... (www.nismo.com.au)

EDIT: according to Greenline the Tomei camsharft from 252/9.5 (LOW) all the way up to 290/11.50 (SUPER HIGH) ar exactly the same price :wacko:

Approx. $350-$360 each

which fits straight into an R32 GTR? or do they all fit?

This "machining" of the cylinder head to clear high lift cams is grossly overrated. I "machined" an RB26 cylinder head to clear 10.3 mm lift cams yesterday in less than 20 minutes with the die grinder.  And I didn't take the cylinder head off to do it either.  Just had the trusty vacuum cleaner in action and some gladwrap.

Think about the numbers involved.  If 9.8 mm clears easily, then the max you have to remove is 0.5 mm.  That is hardly MACHINING  :wacko:  :lol:  :P  :lol:  :)

:) Cheers :)

SK...when you say 9.8mm clears, do you mean cams with a smaller base circle? I know on my head, there was next to no clearance (about 0.5mm) with 9.15mm PONCAMS.

The tomei ones I was looking at yesterday were 9.15/260deg...how does that rate compared to other lifts and degs?

these were $1400 for  pair as well, is that an average figure?

I know nothing about cams and timings etc, but want to know before I get into modifying next year...

if your interested in a contact i got mine for 1100... poncams 9.15/260deg.

also a quick question..

how SHOULD an r32 gtr run with tomie poncams using a standard ecu?

Only my opinion but the HKS camshafts look alot higher quality and nicer finish compared (yes i have seen both) to the tomei cams i saw and the 3 cars with HKS cams that i know of average over 600rwhp so yeh my preference is HKS cams but only my opinion. Mine havn't even been dialled in yet at 608rwhp.

if your interested in a contact i got mine for 1100... poncams 9.15/260deg.

nah, I am planning on computer, cam gears, belt and boost increase first. Cams and other internals later on. thanks anyway :O

Also, I found the Tomei Cams (IN260deg / EX252deg / L9.15mm) at Nengun for $887 delivered for the RB26DETT:

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/38

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...