Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanx thats what I had thought from what I have been reading on here, will they be a bit laggier or much if a muchness if tuned right (assuming you may have done this at some time so might know), a bit new to TURBO cars so not so sure I suspect tuned right they may even help eliminate some lag due to better/more flow cylinder filling etc. Is that a possibility or have I missed the mark completely :P

They are not laggy at all. They reduce lag over the factory cams significantly and increase power everywhere.

I use the poncams on my daily driven setup, with a T04Z running 23 psi of boost and 1000cc squirters. the poncams are 260 dur and 9.15 mm lift. using tomei lifters and jun valvesprings. manley custom Gen II 0.5mm oversize valves and ratainers. when i didnt dail in my cams, the car was sluggish to come onto boost, but after expert advice by SK the cams were dailed in and i was actually amazed at how much it allowed me to push the ignition. the car came to full song 400rpm earlier and acually from a roling start it would light up all 4rs through the 1st, 2nd and it would chirp the 3rd. the cams made big big differance, the power increased to 467awkw. on the drag engine im building atm i will be eploying 1mm oversize valves, and jun 280 deg 11.35mm lift cams, to push the T51 SPL BB turbo. all the bits in the head will be jun exept the valves. for the street i dont recomend bigger then 260 on both in and ex.

They are not laggy at all. They reduce lag over the factory cams significantly and increase power everywhere.

Thanks mate that confirms what I had suspected, cams I ordered wont make it to me before the dyno time I have booked so will be able to post good before and after cam type dyno sheets for all to see.

Would have liked to put em straight in though with all the other bolt-ons and powerfc but just isnt going to happen. :glare:

why do people not reccomend 272/280 cams for the street? i have them and they dont cause any drivability issues at all so whats the downside besides maybe abit of lag, but plenty of top end power?

Fuel ecomomy

Emmissions, nasty

Noise, a legal 92 db with 248's is not going to be legal wiht 272's

Soft idle problem (and just up from idle) with air con, electrical and power steering loads

Plug fouling

Clutch wear, in fact the full drive train, as you have to use higher rpm to get up the torque curve

Extra capacity does overcome some of those, for example an RB20 is really weak with 272/280‘s but an RB30 with the same cams is strong at idle and just above. High (static) compression ratio also helps as the extra overlap lowers the (dynamic) compression ratio anyway.

:huh: cheers :laugh:

they do look like an interesting bolt on don't they and to run the cams surgested would make one nasty rb26 ;)

far out im diggin from the past but those tomei turbs are big, bigger than the T618Z's ive used in the past... even the T618Z's needed big big cams to work effectively... like 280 big and as far as lift goes they were big enough to require relieving the cam tunnels (common i know but still)

anyone used them? they are bigger than TD06's but low mounted.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi I'm looking at purchasing the JUN stage one camshaft kit from greenline.jp , (272/272 9.7mm lift) the kit says it includes valve springs, is this all that I need to fit the camshafts??

No retainers etc needed?

Cheers :P

does anyone know the standard r33 rb26dett cam lift and duration

cheers

from my R32 GTR manual

Intake:

valve opens 7deg BTDC, closes 53deg BBDC

Exhaust:

valve opens 63deg BBDC, closes 7deg BTDC

does that make sense?

lift is not stated, just clearances

Edited by ronnydotk
from my R32 GTR manual

Intake:

valve opens 7deg BTDC, closes 53deg BBDC

Exhaust:

valve opens 63deg BBDC, closes 7deg BTDC

does that make sense?

lift is not stated, just clearances

Thats good I can work the rest out thanks but maybe the inlet closes 53deg ABDC ??? making it 240 duration against 236 for the exhaust dunno.

Edited by ike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...