Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

What can i say? Im a owner of a Skyline now. Its a 96 White R33 Skyline GTS-4? Its a nice looker n all very attractive car.

IM happy with it n all but the only prob its NA :D

Im looking to turbo it or do an engine swap to RB25DET.... Yes guys i have read all the forums regarding this. so dun tell me to search:)

Is there any 1 from "Adelaide" who also has an R33 GTS4 and had any 1 turbo and NA skyline or done engine swap etc?

As this my 1st skyline i dun know many places out there dat tune em?

I have heard boostworx,JMS,Jap Dismatlers... i dunnoz? any suggestions ppl?

all feedback greatly appreciated!

Regards

Shorty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96791-i-bought-my-skyline-r33-gts-4/
Share on other sites

i dont mean to sound cynical here, but why didnt you buy one that was turbocharged? gts25t R33s have really come down in price recently. plus it would save you money/time/hassle ect..

anyways, it sounds like a nice car, post a pic when you get a chance :D

the money n time u gona spen making it turbo, save and when u have the money 2 turbo it, sell urs and get a new 1 with a turbo...thats my opinion..itll prob b cheaper and have change 4 some mods...i had (still do and its 4 sale btw) a 33 gts 4 2 yrs then i got new car....it was sorta a waste of time cos insurance was the same, petrol was the same etc etc...only got it cos my dad thought it was not as 'fast' as a turbo...hahaha

sell it and buy the turbed model, ya gona pay the same or even more converting it, ya lookin at at least 2-4k for ya motor, box, ecu, loom, airflow meter, then ya got ya cooler setup on top plus any other hiddn cost.... been there done that, just droped a rb20 into a car that never had one and it ate about 5k..........

sell it, and get the turbed model!

Edited by 66 skyline gt

Thanks peoples,

Yeh thanks for the help pplz. Yeh its gonna be 5g-6g for total job, then i gotta tell me insurance ppl H2p... but yeh have to get it checked by regency. Too much time n effort.

It will be a cruZer for the time being.

Vange. U seeling ur R33 GTS4 whats ur asking price my man?

Regards,

Shorty :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...