Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a Kicker 12" sub in a sealed box run off the small Coustic 4ch amp.

I had the same system in my last car (a 2001 Astra) and yes I got more bass. In the Astra I had the sub facing into the car with the box all the way to the front of the boot (next to rear bumper). If I wanted more bass all I had to do was fold down the ski hatch! :lol:

With my Skyline I have it facing out up against the false wall. I would say the bass now is better than I had in the Astra. Mainly 'cause I have spent a heap more time adjusting settings!

Have you thought about putting some extra holes in ya parcel shelf and then covering with speaker grill? Might let a bit more sound through. I wouldn't remove the metal plate though!

If I cut a 230mm hole in the centre of the metal plate and sandwich the plate between the sub and the box (see post #18) using 6mm screws and T nuts the car's structural integrity won't be comprimised at all. Legal? Well..... N.S.W. blueslip inspector said he wouldn't have a problem with it but if I wanted to be 100% sure I could get it engineered.

R33's have hardcore sound dampening particulary in the boot. The VL was probably one of the worst examples of sound dampening. You just need a good setup to focus the sound in the car rather than trying to push it out the car and to everyone else around the car :)

the bass is always louder in a hatch.

its because of the loading and the boot size.

you'll never get the setup to sound as loud as the hatch. youll probably have to give it twice the power to catch up :)

but still, try and face it in a different direction to get some more out of it, you might get an improvement

If you look at the cabin of a skyline as a compartment of a certain volume, how is it fundamentally different to the cabin of a hatch of similar volume? Apart from the limited loading options of course. Wouldn't aiming a sub through the armrest of a skyline (sealed through the metal plate) perform similar to a forward facing sub at back of a mid-sized hatch?

the reason subs always sound better in a hatch is the dynamics of the interior, eg sloped rear window from which the bass rebounds straight off into into your back, whereas in sedan it will try to bounce either off the boot and through the seat into the cabin or, just try to get through the seat and into the cabin depending on which way you have it facing. so basically; with the gear that you have it will never sound as good as what it did in your hatch. you will have to change gear if you want more bass or just add another sub.

as for ported or sealed; 15" subs work very well in aported enclsure usually for the fact that that is what they are most commonly designed for, loud low chest turning head ringing bass!!! the fact that they are ported allows the sub to hit much lower notes, but it wont hit you as hard as a sealed enclosure. so when using a 10 or 12 inch sub they cant go quite as low a s a 15" so we generally seal them so that they will at least hit you hard :D

  • 9 months later...

Which way are you subs facing? I have two 12" aplines facing outwards, towards the ass end of the car and the bass is INSANE. Trying facing them away form the back seats instead of at them.

See how that goes :P

I have placed a 12mm mdf board flush with the panel you are speaking of removing(in front of battery) on which my amps and wiring are mounted.. i bet it would be heaps louder without it!

I didnt even think of that when i installed it :D

hmmm..

It can vary I think depending on sub/box/etc (mine is sealed) 12". At first I pointed my sub back as many suggested, and it didn't sound so hot, then i pointed it forward and it sounded nice and loud but it gave a very annoying harmonic buzz in the the parcel shelf (one day i'll build a parcel shelf/sound deaden, etc, but not now)..

Then i moved it to the rear, facing at about a 40degree angle. The buzz is gone and still nice volume. So that for me and my setup seems to be the best for me.

I see you're in NSW.

Before you do anything at all please bring it to us so I can diagnose it for you. We usually insert small 10's under the shelf next to the battery and that gives people plenty of bass so I'm assuming there is something going pear-shaped with your sub and / or amp. :D

  • 1 month later...

Im just curious as to how the metal insert in the back seat/wall is a 'structual' item? i have removed mine completely and fitted two 10inch mtx subs in a free air setup. The metal plate is light bendable and flimsy. And simply just bolts on, not under pressure from exerting forces etc? This seems rather interesting to me.

dont forget the size differents in the car also....maybe a new box......i had a 10" in an excel which the box was designed to firesideways :s put that in the skyline and you get nuttin at all

depends on the way you have it setup and what is was really desgined for.........dont cut the wall out bad idea just get it tuned and a new box :O

youll be sweet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...