Jump to content
SAU Community

Where's the Bass ?

GTS-4-Freak

By GTS-4-Freak,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

CanberraR33 Community Regular

CanberraR33

Posted
Posted

I have a Kicker 12" sub in a sealed box run off the small Coustic 4ch amp.

I had the same system in my last car (a 2001 Astra) and yes I got more bass. In the Astra I had the sub facing into the car with the box all the way to the front of the boot (next to rear bumper). If I wanted more bass all I had to do was fold down the ski hatch! :lol:

With my Skyline I have it facing out up against the false wall. I would say the bass now is better than I had in the Astra. Mainly 'cause I have spent a heap more time adjusting settings!

Have you thought about putting some extra holes in ya parcel shelf and then covering with speaker grill? Might let a bit more sound through. I wouldn't remove the metal plate though!

BOoStEr Collaborator

BOoStEr

Posted
Posted

If I cut a 230mm hole in the centre of the metal plate and sandwich the plate between the sub and the box (see post #18) using 6mm screws and T nuts the car's structural integrity won't be comprimised at all. Legal? Well..... N.S.W. blueslip inspector said he wouldn't have a problem with it but if I wanted to be 100% sure I could get it engineered.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

R33's have hardcore sound dampening particulary in the boot. The VL was probably one of the worst examples of sound dampening. You just need a good setup to focus the sound in the car rather than trying to push it out the car and to everyone else around the car :)

XCUZME Experienced

XCUZME

Posted
Posted

the bass is always louder in a hatch.

its because of the loading and the boot size.

you'll never get the setup to sound as loud as the hatch. youll probably have to give it twice the power to catch up :)

but still, try and face it in a different direction to get some more out of it, you might get an improvement

BOoStEr Collaborator

BOoStEr

Posted
Posted

If you look at the cabin of a skyline as a compartment of a certain volume, how is it fundamentally different to the cabin of a hatch of similar volume? Apart from the limited loading options of course. Wouldn't aiming a sub through the armrest of a skyline (sealed through the metal plate) perform similar to a forward facing sub at back of a mid-sized hatch?

eliter33 Enthusiast

eliter33

Posted
Posted

the reason subs always sound better in a hatch is the dynamics of the interior, eg sloped rear window from which the bass rebounds straight off into into your back, whereas in sedan it will try to bounce either off the boot and through the seat into the cabin or, just try to get through the seat and into the cabin depending on which way you have it facing. so basically; with the gear that you have it will never sound as good as what it did in your hatch. you will have to change gear if you want more bass or just add another sub.

as for ported or sealed; 15" subs work very well in aported enclsure usually for the fact that that is what they are most commonly designed for, loud low chest turning head ringing bass!!! the fact that they are ported allows the sub to hit much lower notes, but it wont hit you as hard as a sealed enclosure. so when using a 10 or 12 inch sub they cant go quite as low a s a 15" so we generally seal them so that they will at least hit you hard :D

  • 9 months later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

Which way are you subs facing? I have two 12" aplines facing outwards, towards the ass end of the car and the bass is INSANE. Trying facing them away form the back seats instead of at them.

See how that goes :P

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

I have placed a 12mm mdf board flush with the panel you are speaking of removing(in front of battery) on which my amps and wiring are mounted.. i bet it would be heaps louder without it!

I didnt even think of that when i installed it :D

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

hmmm..

It can vary I think depending on sub/box/etc (mine is sealed) 12". At first I pointed my sub back as many suggested, and it didn't sound so hot, then i pointed it forward and it sounded nice and loud but it gave a very annoying harmonic buzz in the the parcel shelf (one day i'll build a parcel shelf/sound deaden, etc, but not now)..

Then i moved it to the rear, facing at about a 40degree angle. The buzz is gone and still nice volume. So that for me and my setup seems to be the best for me.

Fhrx Rising Star

Fhrx

Posted
Posted

I see you're in NSW.

Before you do anything at all please bring it to us so I can diagnose it for you. We usually insert small 10's under the shelf next to the battery and that gives people plenty of bass so I'm assuming there is something going pear-shaped with your sub and / or amp. :D

  • 1 month later...
mtopxsecret6 Experienced

mtopxsecret6

Posted
Posted

Im just curious as to how the metal insert in the back seat/wall is a 'structual' item? i have removed mine completely and fitted two 10inch mtx subs in a free air setup. The metal plate is light bendable and flimsy. And simply just bolts on, not under pressure from exerting forces etc? This seems rather interesting to me.

Frosty Grand Master

Frosty

Posted
Posted

dont forget the size differents in the car also....maybe a new box......i had a 10" in an excel which the box was designed to firesideways :s put that in the skyline and you get nuttin at all

depends on the way you have it setup and what is was really desgined for.........dont cut the wall out bad idea just get it tuned and a new box :O

youll be sweet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...