Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a Kicker 12" sub in a sealed box run off the small Coustic 4ch amp.

I had the same system in my last car (a 2001 Astra) and yes I got more bass. In the Astra I had the sub facing into the car with the box all the way to the front of the boot (next to rear bumper). If I wanted more bass all I had to do was fold down the ski hatch! :lol:

With my Skyline I have it facing out up against the false wall. I would say the bass now is better than I had in the Astra. Mainly 'cause I have spent a heap more time adjusting settings!

Have you thought about putting some extra holes in ya parcel shelf and then covering with speaker grill? Might let a bit more sound through. I wouldn't remove the metal plate though!

If I cut a 230mm hole in the centre of the metal plate and sandwich the plate between the sub and the box (see post #18) using 6mm screws and T nuts the car's structural integrity won't be comprimised at all. Legal? Well..... N.S.W. blueslip inspector said he wouldn't have a problem with it but if I wanted to be 100% sure I could get it engineered.

R33's have hardcore sound dampening particulary in the boot. The VL was probably one of the worst examples of sound dampening. You just need a good setup to focus the sound in the car rather than trying to push it out the car and to everyone else around the car :)

the bass is always louder in a hatch.

its because of the loading and the boot size.

you'll never get the setup to sound as loud as the hatch. youll probably have to give it twice the power to catch up :)

but still, try and face it in a different direction to get some more out of it, you might get an improvement

If you look at the cabin of a skyline as a compartment of a certain volume, how is it fundamentally different to the cabin of a hatch of similar volume? Apart from the limited loading options of course. Wouldn't aiming a sub through the armrest of a skyline (sealed through the metal plate) perform similar to a forward facing sub at back of a mid-sized hatch?

the reason subs always sound better in a hatch is the dynamics of the interior, eg sloped rear window from which the bass rebounds straight off into into your back, whereas in sedan it will try to bounce either off the boot and through the seat into the cabin or, just try to get through the seat and into the cabin depending on which way you have it facing. so basically; with the gear that you have it will never sound as good as what it did in your hatch. you will have to change gear if you want more bass or just add another sub.

as for ported or sealed; 15" subs work very well in aported enclsure usually for the fact that that is what they are most commonly designed for, loud low chest turning head ringing bass!!! the fact that they are ported allows the sub to hit much lower notes, but it wont hit you as hard as a sealed enclosure. so when using a 10 or 12 inch sub they cant go quite as low a s a 15" so we generally seal them so that they will at least hit you hard :D

  • 9 months later...

Which way are you subs facing? I have two 12" aplines facing outwards, towards the ass end of the car and the bass is INSANE. Trying facing them away form the back seats instead of at them.

See how that goes :P

I have placed a 12mm mdf board flush with the panel you are speaking of removing(in front of battery) on which my amps and wiring are mounted.. i bet it would be heaps louder without it!

I didnt even think of that when i installed it :D

hmmm..

It can vary I think depending on sub/box/etc (mine is sealed) 12". At first I pointed my sub back as many suggested, and it didn't sound so hot, then i pointed it forward and it sounded nice and loud but it gave a very annoying harmonic buzz in the the parcel shelf (one day i'll build a parcel shelf/sound deaden, etc, but not now)..

Then i moved it to the rear, facing at about a 40degree angle. The buzz is gone and still nice volume. So that for me and my setup seems to be the best for me.

I see you're in NSW.

Before you do anything at all please bring it to us so I can diagnose it for you. We usually insert small 10's under the shelf next to the battery and that gives people plenty of bass so I'm assuming there is something going pear-shaped with your sub and / or amp. :D

  • 1 month later...

Im just curious as to how the metal insert in the back seat/wall is a 'structual' item? i have removed mine completely and fitted two 10inch mtx subs in a free air setup. The metal plate is light bendable and flimsy. And simply just bolts on, not under pressure from exerting forces etc? This seems rather interesting to me.

dont forget the size differents in the car also....maybe a new box......i had a 10" in an excel which the box was designed to firesideways :s put that in the skyline and you get nuttin at all

depends on the way you have it setup and what is was really desgined for.........dont cut the wall out bad idea just get it tuned and a new box :O

youll be sweet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you, 100% the intent. New coils were due and the 17" sixers look/feel loads better than the stock wheels. The aero options are so spot on.   Thanks for the warm welcome, all!
    • 98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...