Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am getting my engine rebuilt at present with forged pistons. I have been informed of other upgrades. My car has N1 turbo's, AFM, Power FC, Electronic boost control, HKS adj cam gears, upgraded FMIC, Full 3.5 "exhaust without cat with twin dump pipes, Twin K&n pod filters, Upgraded Injectors, fuel pump, HKS twin plated clutch, lightened fly wheel. Got dyno tuned at 310@all wheels.

I am looking at getting N1 bearings, blue print engine build, new timimg belt, steel head gasket and water pump have been quoted about $1750 for this.

This is at end of budget already gone over. Are these engine mods well worth that price and worth it long term when asking that sort of power. I would expect about 330-350 KW@all wheels when completed with above mods.

Also is upgrading oil pump necessary was quoted about 850 for that, can't afford now. If I don't do that are the other mods for 1750 a waste of time.

Any responses appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97271-upgrading-engine-in-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

I'm new to the engine build thing as well so don't take my word as gospel but heres my opinions from what i've learnt.

Bearings definatly upgrade - N1 or ACL i think? ...

Blue print engine build not sure what that invovles don't know if everyone does that or not...

Timing belt definatly - last thing you want to do is have you brand new engine's timing belt snap and kill your engine.

Head gasket - may as well do it especially if you're going to be running 20psi +

I'm also doing N1 oil pump and N1 Water pump. Once again saftey thing - don't want to cheap out on $800 on an oil pump to have oil surge kill my engine.... i think its worth it, its up to you tho.

If you are going to the expense of pulling the engine out, then dont skimp on parts else you risk potentially having to pull it out again later down the line if something goes wrong.

Heres a mini list off the top of my head (im still waking up so bare with me)

Forged pistons

New Bearings

Tomei oil gallery restrictor

Sump baffles

Full head service (You should be doing this with your build)

Standard rods will suffice for the power you want

Full genuine Nissan gasket kit (complete engine repair kit)

Tomei gasket kit (Metal head, inktake & exhaust gaskets)

N1 oil pump (Definately not $850, Just Jap sells for $499)

N1 Water Pump

Timing Belt

All drive belts

So in short, theres no point ripping the motor out, machining the block and fitting new forged pistons and rings, but refitting the standard oil and water pump etc, thats plain stupid.

Do it once, do it right - An engine build is really something you need to sit down and plan out rather than lauching into it un-prepared only to discover mid build that you cant afford to do the fundamental upgrades that are needed on a highly tuned car if you want it to last

theres a lot of support for the N1 water pump here, when in practise on the street a std one more than does the job adequately. its been reviewed many times that the N1 water pump has less blades than stock, and actually pumps less water at lower rpms that a street car would see. this is not what you want if you happen to get stuck in traffic.

definitly dont skimp on the oiling! good god man! :D

whats the cars primary use?

your building one of the greatest performance motors of all time to make around 500hp, "i cant afford it now"?! bah, just wait till you can afford it. as above do it once do it right, it will cost you thousands(!) and just as significantly time and frustration if the motor goes due to an oil problem, and then you have to start from scratch.

What kind of money is all this costing you ? Is the $1750 extra for the parts you have mentioned above ?You should always use new bearings in any engine built especialy a hot engine , 330-350 awkw is a lot of power . $850 is a bit over the top for an oil pump when retail from Nissan is 600-650 and you can get them a lot cheaper.

Blue printing means double checking everything , everyone should do some of it , again especialy on a performance engine . For than kind of power i would even use a new crank and new rods , rod bolts and head bolts or studs but thats just me , others will tell you your old rods and crank are fine .

Thanks everyone for yor responses. I am definetely getting oil pump, Forged pistons, N1 bearings, new timing belt, blue print and steel head gasket. I have been informed that oil pump very important so putting in the extra money. I have decided not to upgrade water pump as not really necessary.

I'm not sure if I will ever take car to track or not. I never planned to but might now after doing up engine should handle it fine. All I wanted was a sleeper looking car with kick arse power and maximum accellaration. Just want car to fly from take off.

I was never going to do a project like this but after walking away from a head on collision with a Nissan Patrol with a huge bull bar and I was in a 1985 Ford TX5 turbo a couple of months ago I decided always better sooner rather than later. (BLOODY DRINK DRIVER WAS ON WRONG SIDE OF ROAD AND DROVE OFF. BLOODY INSURANCE COMPANY STATED AS ONLY HAD 3RD PARTY WOULD NOT COVER ME AS I WAS PARTLY TO BLAME BY JUST BEING ON THE ROAD.)

By the way this site kicks arse due to the knowledge of Nissan owners. My MRS owns a 95 TT supra and posted a couple of questions on supra forums and got like one response by a moron who stated runs 19psi on stock ceramic turbos. It seem like they are all poor young americans who bag later model supras as they can't afford them. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK GUYS. :)

Any reputable engine builder would not allow any short cuts without the customer specifically requesting(*and outlined on the job card) those compromises.A fully recon.motor is that.(including new radiator for warranty etc) .Anything else is a patch up.In fact,certain engine builders(eg mine) wont allow a motor build unless it is tuned in house. And justifiably so as it benefits builder and purchaser which should be self explainatory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...