Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of my front rotors is messed up and I'm getting it replaced tomorrow. RDA brand slotted type. Guy is charging $500 for the pair of fronts (only doing the fronts). I'm also getting new pads at the same time. He said they are EBC, I forgot to ask which sort, for $240 the pair and going by online prices, I reckon they're greenstuff... anyone agree?

And charging $170 for fitting. I think it's $$$ but I need them done ASAP and he has the stock and he's also already gonna be replacing my throttle sensor for free with one I'm bringing him since he spent a whole day to narrow it down as the cause of a separate problem I have.

So yeah... $910 for RDA slotted fronts, EBC Greens (I think), and fitting, does that sound exorbitant? I *think* I've seen rotors for about 200 each.. but might be imagining things.

Guess its irrelevant since it's all gotta be done asap, but still interested to know how hard I'm getting shafter (or if at all). :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97482-sound-like-overcharging/
Share on other sites

$500 for RDA rotors

$240 for EBC pads

$170 for labour

$910 total

The old Group Buy price was $450 for a pair of DBA slotted rotors, so $500 retail is OK.

Bendix pads are half that and personally I don't believe EBC are worth the price.

$170 for labour to change rotors and pads is OK, not cheap but OK as long as brake fluid and bleeding are included.

If you did it yourself, you could do it for around $600 in half a day, working slowly. The question for you is, is the extra $310 worth it for someone to do it all for you?

:) cheers :)

OK thanks, glad to hear the rotors aren't way over.

I read about Bendix vs EBC on here, couldn't tell if one was better or not. He's already ordered them, so... oh well.

Can you even change the rotors and pads without changing the fluid and bleeding? I don't know. If brake fluid and bleeding aren't necessary when changing those parts, I doubt he's including them. They should really be done, hey. Tomorrow I'll say "so that includes x & y... right.... ?" and see what he says. If he says no I'll act taken aback and hope he changes his mind without charging extra.. don't think it's gonna happen though.

Yeah it's worth a coupla hundred a pro doing it, cos A) obviously I'm not the most clued up and B) I've gotta take a day off just to get the car to the mechanic and then run off to get some other boring stuff done.. no time to do it myself :)

when i bought slotted RDA rotors before they were about $160 each, ie $320 per pair. if you think the ones you are buying is expensive call RDA and ask them what retail is on the rotors you want.

I dunno what rotors they are. I don't think he's dicking me though, cos this morning I found out I'm getting EBC Redstuff for 240 for the fronts, instead of Greenstuff, which I first assumed cos of the price! He said Reds are 300RRP, so I think he's not ripping me on the other stuff. In fact, it's all being done right now, I can't wait to get it back :P

U sure there not DBA rottors, coz thats roughly wat they go for.......i paid 240 each for my slotted rotors, and 160 each for brand new endless pads super street S theyre pretty bloody good, problem is, hard compound brakes squeel a little no matter how good u bedded them in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
×
×
  • Create New...