Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Friend said she dragged Mr. XXX and XXX was granny shifting or what ever crap that is and she won etc etc blah lbah..... Since I have no interest in dragging anyone nor have I tried, is there a difference in the way you shift gears when you are dragging? Basically, I just wanna know how mnay ways you can shift.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97552-how-do-you-shift/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahahahahah okay well this girl you know has watched the fast and the furious to many times hahah

number 1 - Never take lessons from the fast and the furious

number 2 - Never take lessons from the fast and the furious!

Number 3 - Repeat steps one and two.

but anyhow double clutching is a form of shifting thats used on cars that have no syncros, seeings though all modern cars have syncros, double clutching is not necessary.

Sometimes double clutching is good whilst shifting down, to get into a gear. Youll Find that in some cases when a car is cold shifting down into 2nd can be hard therefore the use of double clutching is used to help it get into gear.

The term "granny shifting" is just used to insult someone on how they change gears.

In terms of dragging, I can gaurantee that none of the professional fellas (or anyone who knows how to drive) double clutch. Double clutching takes time, time is precious over a 1/4 mile.

get it?

Shifting normal - clutch-change gear-release clutch

Double Clutching - Clutch in - put into nuetral/blip throttle/disengage clutch - Clutch in - change into gear - clutch out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97552-how-do-you-shift/#findComment-1769771
Share on other sites

or if you have a dog box i believe you can flat shift... ie dont use the clutch and jam it straight in

umm flat shifting is not shifting like that infact shifting like that is a bad idea and doesnt really work in a racing sense

flat shifting = keeping the go pedal on the floor while changing gear giving that short time to raise revs whilst changing

the reason this is usually only done with dog boxes and such is cause its VERY mean to the box i.e. standard box just breaks and cries :D and you dont want that

it is even bad for the engine in worst case scenarios (if you miss the gear, engine revs up and boom! nice little shower of what used to be engine internals)

and as for shifting in a drag it is basically finding the best for your car

Example: Skyline GTR(with standard box) a medium speed shift is the best because syncros in box cant handle full rev fast changes (reason why standard boxes always have stoofed syncros)

also rev limiter changes arent always the best either (again with GTR) if your setup is making peak power at say 6500rpm then the key is to keep the revs around that number too high not making as much power as you could (power curve drops off) too low takes too long to get onto best power

*end rant*

if i have unanswered anything tell me and ill have a go

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97552-how-do-you-shift/#findComment-1769842
Share on other sites

From what i understand, Flat shifting is basically as u guys said above, shifting while holding the throttle wide open.

Ive been told and believe that is it bad for pretty well any gearbox because it shock-loads the gears on the main shaft against the gears on the cluster shaft because as the clutch is let out, it smacks the input shaft gears against the other gears at the gearbox tries to catch up with the amount of revs the engine is doing. Instead of having them at a reletivly constant speed as u do when u letter the throttle off as u change gears.

Im not 100% sure if thats correct or even makes sence. so correct me if need be.

Edited by Viper1555
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97552-how-do-you-shift/#findComment-1769903
Share on other sites

haha in my old rwd mazda 626 i used to not only keep the pedal to the metal... but also not use the clutch... just jam it as hard inot the next gear as i could hahah... allthough when i missed it really sent a jolt back through my arm ahaha

spose thats how you expect to treat a car worth $slab of beer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97552-how-do-you-shift/#findComment-1770118
Share on other sites

Guest Mashrock
haha in my old rwd mazda 626 i used to not only keep the pedal to the metal... but also not use the clutch... just jam it as hard inot the next gear as i could hahah... allthough when i missed it really sent a jolt back through my arm ahaha

spose thats how you expect to treat a car worth $slab of beer

yeah similar story in the pajero.. i beleive it will b reak soon. but its all this rain and wet weather making me drive crazy as its the only way it will break traction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97552-how-do-you-shift/#findComment-1770169
Share on other sites

Totally agree with what RellikZephyr said.

If you got a really old car without synchros, GET ONE!

If you got a dogbox, SLAM IT and SLAM IT HARD while keeping the foot planted throught the firewall!

Basically, in regards to the shift itself, as fast as you can without breaking the box. On average between clutching, changing gear and engaging the clutch again will take bout .5-.7 of a second. A straight cut shift will take between .4 and .6 depending on how hard you do it and in drag racing, that's a fair bit of time after 3 changes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97552-how-do-you-shift/#findComment-1772026
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...