Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-183229
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rob77

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :D

However check out the mags carbon fibre bonnet, interior, body work... that thing has GTR body (by body i don't mean spoilers, i mean flares and guards) kit.. anoyone know where you can get a cheap GTR flare/guard kit? would be worth a bit? spoke to Jash about it and seemed quite expensive :-(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-184619
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rob77

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :D

Dude, the car has a 10k turbo kit on it - think you might have trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-185062
Share on other sites

that guy has spent WELL over $44,000 on the car. i dont think you can make outrageous claims like that.

maybe youd have 300kw at the wheels but youd be rollin around in 15" wheels, stock bodykitted piece of crap. that car's panel work would be very expensive, wheels, suspension etc etc for under $44,000 inc the initial price of the car? your dreaming

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-187565
Share on other sites

The car has had a very hard life too.

I mean denzo has been driving it!

$45k is expensive, for a time bomb.

I can get hold of a few better cars in japan that have had just as hard a life for less. More power, more $$ worth of parts and much better looking.

Check my avitar -- landed and complied (hurry you only have days left) it would be under $30k. 800PS at the tyres, OS giken diff, gear box, Ogura 4plater , mega buck RB26 blah blah blah...

An R33 GTST is always an R33 GTST, thats what is says on the comp. plate. And that is all the market cares about.

If you modify a car thinking you can make a profit on its sale then you are insane. Just ask Ford or Holden (they don't sell enough to cover costs).

If you expect to recover even 1/2 of what you spent you are either ignorant or a used car salesperson.

That said it's a nice car. Good luck to them trying to sell it for $45k they will need it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-199432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...