Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gester, I had Dunlop FM901's on my last car and found them really predictable and stable when sliding in the dry. They weren't that great in the wet though, but still remained predictable. For the performance, the cost was quite reasonable. However they are quite soft; almost an intermediate compound so will wear quite quickly. Oh, and they were MOTOR's top tyre last year.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-153969
Share on other sites

I love my Falken Ziex tyres. Dunno what they cost on there own as I got 'em with a tyre & wheel package from Tempe Tyres Sydney.

GoodYear Eagle F1s are pretty awesome but if you have wide wheels you can't get 'em. The F1s are great in the dry but they are awesome in the wet!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154252
Share on other sites

Simex for the rear baby yeah!

I do mid 13's all day on just 205's .

however I don't reccomend anything this small, they are still 205's after all, they are just really good for such little tyres.

BTW, don't put them on the front as the sidewalls are spongy and give a little too much radial roll. For the back thats ok, offsets the stupid hicas a little. For the front something that will point the car positively is the go.

Simex are fine wet or dry BTW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154481
Share on other sites

From memory there was an article in Motor or Wheels magazine in a recent edition. It was either 1 or 2 months ago.

Anyway, I think the top rated performance tyre based on wet and dry driving was the Pirelli, followed by the Bridgestone and Goodyear. A respectable 6th out of about 16 tyres was the Hankook. It came it at around half the price of the top brand and were behind the Yokohama and Dunlop.

All the tyres were 235/45/17.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154650
Share on other sites

Best tyres will depend on many factors, such as budget, driving conditions etc. I like the Toyo TPG's, they are by far the best tyre I've ever used. Type R tyres are great for racing, but useless in the wet and don't last long.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154685
Share on other sites

The Toyo's came out somewhere in the bottom 4 I think and Simex was either last or second last.

I was thinking of getting the Hankooks Venturis as I had them quoted for $199 each (the article quoted $175). They are a better wet weather tyre as a pose to dry, but the main selling point was the quality for an affordable price.

Also, in addition to having very good grip, the tread life is about twice that of the Bridgestone G Grid (approx 17000km). I was planning to get these originally.

Falken was a notable omission from the tests. I don't know why.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154913
Share on other sites

Kichigai,

Your only talking about the cheap brands, the TPG's are expensive and are much better. Simex are crap, but of the cheap lot then they are OK.

It really depands on what the budget is. Most tyre manufacturers make a range of tyres, from crap to good, so you can't compare them. $175 is a cheap tyre, I generally spend $300+ each, on new tyres .

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154919
Share on other sites

Paul,

The article compared all major tyre manufacturers. As I mentioned earlier, the Hankooks came to about half the price of the name branded tyres e.g. Bridgestones $364 each, Pirelli ard $400 from memory.

I agree with what you're saying, its just that the article was basically a "Bang for your bucks" style comparison. It tested wet & dry handling, braking and value for money. So for ppl that are wanting the performance factor but want to save a little money the article is relevant.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154937
Share on other sites

Kichigai,

I haven't read the article so I can't really comment on that, but from my own experience, I would never choose the cheap manufacturers like Hankook or Nangkang. Bang for your buck maybe, but for a performance vehicle they just don't stack up. I've tried about 5 different brands of tyres and the Toyo TPG's are the best I've tried, both in the wet and dry.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-154945
Share on other sites

A little off topic, but I did the ring around today for a pair of tyres. I'll be getting the 901's again (fronts this time).

And the bloke said that the FM901's are being replaced by a LM382 (or something like that). The strange thing is this bloke quoted me $278 for a 901 and $237 for a LM382. I wonder if this means the LM382 are going to be a crappier tyre???

After a few phone calls I found the 901's at $220 each - much better :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-155317
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Im using continental contact conti sports on the front and change betwee jokies dna gp and brigestone re540s on the back. never had any problem with any of these tyres. I prefer to have a softer tyre on the front than on the back. Just my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-287357
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Originally posted by Jay95R33

The 239 is a good price no-a-days.

I say grab'm  :O

Last week i got some new quotes for these Dunlop FM901's.

From a Dunlop dealer they were $200ea + fitting.

From Beaurepairs they were $269ea fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-371437
Share on other sites

ahhh im going crazy with all these choices. Ask 10 people and get 5 different answers, ask another 10 people and get another 5 different answers.

So far to date i have quotes on:

(225/50/16)

Bridgestone G3 = $220ea

Bridgeston ER50 = $270ea

Dunlop FM901 = $269ea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9907-best-tyres-to-get/#findComment-373200
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...