Jump to content
SAU Community

Pioneer 5750 Cd Head Unit


Angry Fist
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've come upon a bit of a snag..since I bought my skyline, I've been wanting to give DIY a go and since I stuffed the CD player in it the other day, I thought I'd try installing a new one..well, I did but here's my problem:

after I installed it, when I switched the ignition to the ACC position, it worked but then I switched it off and to ACC again, and it stopped working!

Then, the car wouldn't start, then the door open and key in ignition chime went crazy, then didn't work altogether!

Then the interior ceiling lights didn't work..I am pretty new to all this so I was wondering if anyone had any pointers??

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did the car start BEFORE you played with the stereo. how long did you have the doors open? 20-30 minutes on a crap battery will cause this. as for fuses - both are under the dash.

did you chop the radio plug off?

series one or series 2?

need more info really.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i installed the same head unit in a friends corolla yesterday with no problems :D hehe.

sorry

useless reply

ive had heaps of issues in the past but not this one

id check all ur fuses. in the car and the engine bay. but im no pro

did u ground it to metal or to an existing wire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the help so far guys, I've re-attached my ground lead instead of using the existing one and so far I seem to be getting better results, now when I switch to Acc position, the head unit and all associated electrical equipment (ie interior lighting, hazards, front park lights, tail lights, etc) work as well and consistantly..but the engine is still not turning over!! The dash lights come on and I hear this "click" sound as it tries to start or something but just can, then all the dash lights just die..what have I done to my baby ;)

my battery still reads 12.7V or something while the stuff is running so that's ok. I can't belive it but I've spent the whole of yesterday and a few hours of today too..saw king kong by the way gotta say I quite enjoyed it..

Anyway, it's a series 1, GTS25T I had the doors open I'd say upwards of a few hours but while I'm working on it I always disconnect the (-ve) terminal on the battery which will protect against shorts...and serves to perform an ECU reset if I'm correct..is there any special way to start it up after ECU reset?? WTF is going on with my car?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its the battery thats gone flat.

The clicking you hear is the pull in winding on the starter motor disconnecting because their is not enough current to hold it in, because the battery is flat.

Jump start it and all your problems will be solved.

It doesnt matter what voltage your turbo timer is showing the battery has because the battery isn't under load...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey thanks for the help fellas!

Guess what..day before yesterday, I had given up and I thought may as well get it towed or get an auto electrician to come out. Then luckily my mum asks me to get something from the garage and just out of the blue I thought, "why not?" and I decided to try starting it...

I could hardly belive the next few seconds..the engine started and I was wide eyed and cheering! I couldn't belive it...and I still don't know exactly what's going on.

I think MANWHOR3/Mr Italy! were on the right track though 'cause on xmas day I tried again, and I re-grounded with my own, instead of using the existing one. Then, I used a multimeter to measure the battery directly at it's terminals with the key turned to the Acc position with the stereo on (which worked but just didn't start) then measured it at the wiring when my stereo was connected..then when I tried to start the car, there would always be a huge voltage drop which never returned to the normal level until I disconnected the -ve terminal on the battery and reattached it after a few seconds.

oh well...I'm just happy it works now..

happy new year fellas :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any recommendations on a decent replacement manifold that doesnt break the bank or require additional mods for the stock turbo setup? I figure if I'm going to pull the manifold off anyway to fix the studs might as well replace it. 
    • So I checked the turbo out today. Very minimum play at all just enough for the oil to take up when it's running. I did find an exhaust leak at the manifold. 1 stud all the way in the front is missing and the one all the way in the back is broken off. Front has visible signs of an exhaust leak. I'll fix that soon but that's not my problem still.  I also found that the nipple coming off the turbo had the hose capped off and a hose ran from the j-pipe by the bov going to the wastegate. I removed that hose and capped that nipple and put the turbo nipple hose back on the wastegate.  There was a ton of oil residue all through the charge side of the intercooler piping going to the throttle bodg. I'm thinking that's from the pcv. Doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo that was all clean on the pipes side.  Haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet, haven't had time been having to pull a lot of doubles at work. I did pick up some carb cleaner to clean the iacv but wanted to make sure I had a fresh gasket in case the old one rips when I pull it off.  I'm waiting on a MAF that was supposed to be here today but delayed to Monday. Have a double Monday and Friday and work all of next weekend so going to try to find some time in the middle of the week to try that out. Did about a 10m trip around the block today and towards the end the issues were coming back. Fingers crossed on this MAF but if not just going to throw a fuel pressure gauge in and see where I'm at.  Did notice today that I can definitely hear the injectors pulsing. Very audible clicking coming from them. Assuming that's normal? Should also mean CAS is functioning somewhat properly. After it warmed up when I started it the intermittent misfires came in again. Did start doing that before it was fully warmed up. 
    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
×
×
  • Create New...